Just as the thread title says, I'm wondering if there's any trick to installing the upper two bolts between the hogshead and the back of the block on my '26. Should there be a shim or anything in there for alignment or just snug the suckers down?
Shims. Stand it up on it's nose first. Bend that engine and you'll be shopping for a new crankshaft.
As Tim says stand it on it's nose, but let the crankshaft hang. Don't rest it on the end of the crankshaft. When you bolt the crankcase and hogs head put in loosly the two bolts at the rear of the crankcase through the 4th main. It should be free to move in and out on those bolts without binding on the output shaft. Try reversing the 4th main and check again. Shim between the hogs head and the block at the position of the two bolts. It should shimmed to the point the 4th main will still slide in and out easily. Then tighten all the bolts down. Be careful with the last bolt at the end of the block and the ones on the hogshead closest to the block. The casting can be snapped easily at these two places if they are not tightened evenly. Similarly to torquing down a head. Tighten the two upper bolts last.
I am in a similar situation to Tim's.
When I bought my '27 Runabout, I found the two bolts between the hogshead and the block were missing.
What are the specs on these bolts, meaning length and thread pitch?
What should I torque them to?
Since my engine is already installed, should I pull it to complete the procedure that Norm described?
Sorry for any thread drift, but it is related.
John, when I ordered my new boots over the phone I believe I was told they're just another set of water outlet bolts.
My car is in the same situation as yours; engine installed and I don't want to pull it. As I understand it, those upper hogshead bolts are to help stiffen the pan to account for the longer four dip cover (vice the earlier three dip). In '25 they had a four dip pan but no upper bolts and I don't hear of constant issues with those cars (although I trust there's a reason for the bolts) so I'm going to leave the bolts out for now.
There is also 2 steel straps that run from the ear bolts each side, to the bolt and nut that go's through the pan ear engine mount.
I would certainly put in those bolts.
If the car is all assembled, I would put a jack under the front of the driveshaft and take a guess on taking the weight of the front of the driveshaft, and half the transmission. Maybe 50-70lb.
It may not be accurate, but it's got to be better than having it all hanging, as it is now.
Then measure the gap, if any at the block (Don't put your weight on the car while doing this!) and cut and fit shims. The straps mentioned above are also good
If it were mine, and it is running fine the way it is, I would measure the gap between the block and the hogs head and shim to maintain the same clearance. You can reach the two bolts by pulling the floorboard. The 26-27 also had a brace on each side between the crankcase ear top bolt and the bolt at the top of the hogs head. That brace helps to keep the crankcase from twisting when you apply the brake with the wider brake band.