Trying to make some final connections prior to my first start. Have 26/27 engine with Holly NH carb with the T top, not the swivel. And a 1915 adjusting rod with the two forked ends on it, one of which has a small hole in it for, I presume, a cotter pin.
But after sliding it down through my dash, the two forked ends won't fit through the small holes in my T top and, even it they did, it's kind of a weird angle to the dangle.
Does this rod connect directly to the T top or is there a piece or two that I am missing. This set up was not part of the speedster donor project, so I don't have a disassembly reference.
Any direction greatly appreciated.
The reproduction mixture rods are not made quite right. I've had to re - bend the part that fits in the top of the carburetor to keep it from binding when turned. The ends are just a bit too wide. You can crush it in the vise a bit, then straighten it out again to get the spacing right. After that they work fine.
Agree with you Royce.
Just had to 'rework' a modern replacement adj.rod, the one on the far right. The ends were too long and had to shorten one.
(Originals on left, repro on right, the plain finished is an older repro made correct.)
The worst of the newer rod was the rod handle, that would not fit in the metal firewall. Will the metal firewall, the rod handle is fitted from the engine side, and held high the the air, and then inserted and twisted down to fit the 'gap' in the loop handle into the slot of the metal firewall. The metal thickness of the firewall has to be cleared by the gap in the loop. The modern is too big and can't be inserted .
So the one on the far right is now re-shaped to fit in, but no way looking like the original loop handles on the far left that are correct. Jeez. Wish repro part makers for these little details would get a copy of the Ford blueprint.
(Repro on far right had such a large loop handle that it needed bending and trimming just to fit, but now looks odd. The plain finish older repro has a more decent looking loop handle.)
Dan's first photo shows that the business end of the originals is made of a smaller diameter rod than the handle. The repos are made all of one size rod.
Well, I've got the large brass knob on the dash side that comes off and on, so getting it through the wood dash is not an issue, it's the "business" end that was throwing me. So with your advice, I'll tweek the ends of the rod and the holes in the T fitting and get them together and then just a small cotter pin to keep it all in place.
Just didn't want to start shaving and enlarging if I was missing something in between.
Thanks to all.
Made my own choke wire this moring while waiting for the replies. Can you say "coat hanger"?
The key thing to keep in the back of your mind any time that you get a reproduction part is that it often won't work right out of the box. Thank goodness we have reproduction parts, they are better than nothing, but not always what you expect.
This is why you are often better off finding or fixing an original part if that is an option.
Just ground off the flattened tab on two edges and it slipped right in. Cotter pin and cotter pin on the brass knob and it's good enough for me.
Thanks for the direction. Might try and start it tomorrow if it's a little warmer in the ATL.