Getting ready to rebuild rear axle in the 26 RPU. I've read the model t bible and the repairing and restoring by Glen Chaffin .I see race puller ,pullers for pinion, drives shafts bushing,driveshaft sleeve, and reamer and facing tool.are these tools specialized to model t or are they standard pullers? I have access to machine shop for reaming and facing. I'm ordering gasgets and race puller for now until late I get it apart and see what parts need replaced.what thrust washers will I need to order from Langs for the job? I'm sure I will need more info but that's all for now.
Thank you all
Drive safe and often
In my opinion, your best bet is to use the original Ford Service Book. That is how I learned, and I still use their methods to this day.
Glenside book is used with the Ford service book.lt goes into more detail on clearances and illustrations of bad parts. Great great for a first timer as myself.ive learned to ask questions here before rather than after . Saves time and money.
As to your thrust washer question, get the bronze thrust washers. Especially if your rear axle does not currently use bronze washers. Do NOT reuse the grey babbitt ones no matter how good they may look, (although they very seldom do look good, if they're even still in one piece).
I agree that it's good to use both books. The Bible tells you what to do, and Glen's book offers more detail on how to do it. My only quibble with the MTFCA book is that Glen is impartial on whether to use the original type pinion bearing. I'll go with John Regan's Fun Projects bearing every time.
And yes, the bronze thrust washers are a MUST.
What about tools? I need to buy all the tools I listed ? I have another 26 to do after this one.
Pinions rarely need pulling. Tap with a hammer.
DS upper bushing can be removed with a junk driveshaft and 11/16" socket turned backwards. DS inner sleeves can be removed by grinding and splitting. Outer sleeves for the early spool can easily be pressed off from the front. Only tool you really need is the axle bearing sleeve puller. You can use the JB Weld method for the new upper DS bushing. If you need some explanation, email me.
You can't do the job without the axle bearing sleeve puller. The other tools you can make do with other methods, particularly if the part being removed is junk, which is normally the case. For example the drive shaft bushing can be pushed out with a home made tool using an old drive shaft to reach it. Your drive shaft is likely worn beyond he point of being usable, so it makes a great tool.
For axle bearings you will need to find good originals or break out your wallet for some of the sealed variety. The reproduction roller type axle and pinion bearings have been known to fail often and early.
I like the Regan pinion bearing if the original is not usable. The originals are fine if in perfect shape and you install it correctly.
As the other guys said, this is the special tool you need. It costs less than $20.
Here's one method of removing the pinion gear. Take off the nut, turn it around, and put it back on just far enough to be even with the end of the shaft. There should be a little space between the nut and the gear. Then do this:
Thanks to all,that's the info I needed to get started.i will keep you posted.Richard I will definitely get in touch if I run into problems
Drive safe and often
When you put it back together you will need a fixture to hold the left side housing vertical. The vendors sell a repo KRW holder for $195. Donnie Brown did a post on one he made from a disc brake rotor, so I used his idea. I bought a front rotor from a Ford Excursion at the Pull-a-Part junk yard for $15 and cut a notch in it with my chop saw, and bolted it to my bench. I used a sawhorse with adjustable legs to hold the driveshaft when that needed to be installed. The Excursion rotor has a center hole that is about 3 5/8" for the axle tube to fit into.
Get a pinion bearing from Fun Projects. Makes life easy setting up the driveshaft.
Thank Dan first that tip.the more money I save the more T's I can have and I like making life easier.
Save even more with scrap lumber.
The piece bolted to the table, in the foreground, holds the drive shaft housing. The two 2 x 6 scraps in the background are far enough apart for the tube to slip between them, with a hole where the housing sits.