Slow going. Putting things back together in hopes I can get her to start.
The T (Oct 1924 engine, brass radiator, I believe the body is mid-teens, but can't find a number anywhere. This car has been modified quite a bit. It's been sitting most of 2 years.
Antifreeze appeared to have "disappeared" leaving behind green globules. Took out spark plugs, Inside cyl #1, I saw those same globs of green. A number of recommendations on this forum. i ended up checking torque on head bolts. It was low (around 20). Tightened to 45. Hoping that's the problem.
Refilled radiator with 50/50 green antifreeze. No apparent leaking on the floor.
I'd had the oil drained out (creamy brown texture) Also removed inspection plate on bottom of pan.
The car hasn't been run or turned over since all this work. Today when I went back to replace the inspection plate, I'd noticed unmistakable green liquid drops hanging from the opening. Just a couple drops, but definitely there.
I think this means that the antifreeze has migrated from the radiator to the block. Since I haven't run / turned over the car, I'm not sure how this happened. Or do I have a more serious internal block issue?
And how much antifreeze moves around from radiator to block when the radiator is filled but engine not moving?
Only paralyzed because I need to make sure I don't mess something up bigger.
Bad head gasket or cracked block or head. I would pull the head and take a look.
What Royce said. I had a crack in the block next to a valve on my 26 and it was hard to see but let water into the oil so look close when you pull the head. Oil and water make a mess and will do a lot of damage.
Pull the plugs and take a look inside the cylinders just to make sure or perhaps you can trace where the leak is coming out from down below such as off a cylinder wall. In either case there's a head gasket change in your future. It might be very obvious once the head's off but sometimes knowing where it originates from is a good thing.
I was hoping to be moving towards putting things back together. But was prepared to pull the head. I've already bought a new copper gasket. I guess my socket wrench is next. I'll pull the head and hope for an obvious issue and hope that it's fixable.
You may get lucky and find that it's only a head gasket leak.
One thing that will trip you up is that the head bolt holes get crudded up and keep the bolts from tightening down the head, even though the bolts feel tight and will even torque properly.
You'll want to make sure the holes are clean, and the bolts are clean. What I've seen others suggest is that you put the head on with no gasket, and make sure you can tighten the bolts all the way down onto the head. Then you put a gasket in place (caution - it can go two ways but only one is correct because of small coolant holes) and put anti-seize on the bolts and torque them, from center to ends. After running the engine for a while, re-torque them.
If not already mentioned, check the head for flatness while it's apart. After you've got it all cleaned up and ready to try out again, don't put anti-freeze in it at first. Just use water. If it leaks again, the anti-freeze will make another huge mess. Only after you know you've got it fixed should you add anti-freeze.
Also, after you've run it for a bit and let it warm up, you should probably change out the oil again to be sure you've got all the remnants of coolant flushed out.
BE SURE TO PUT HEAD GASKET ON THE RIGHT WAY. There is a front and back to them. BIG HOLE to the back. Dan.