I'm aware of the Fun-Projects kits, but anybody ever modify an original spool to use tapered roller bearings. I have never seen a Fun-Projects part live and in person , so it might be more difficult than I imagine. What would be involved? Removing metal? Just wondering.
Tommy, before the Fun projects items were put on the market, I had done the following. On an open spool either end of the spool was bored to accept ball bearing races. I can't remember the OD, but the ID was that of the tailshaft with the original bearing sleeve removed. The rear bearing was a thrust bearing, and a sleeve was used to make up the space between the two.
Being imperial sized bearings made them much more expensive than similar sized metric ones, but that was what fitted the shaft.
Allan from down under.
Tommy, you simply order the new bearing and send them your old spool. No machining is necessary.
I have done the same as Allan. I've also done one with tapered roller bearings
Ok, now I see you want to modify the spool your self. Sorry about the post above.
Rebuilding several Dana rearends gave me the idea to set up a spool with a pair of tapered bearings.
The challenge for me was how to set up the preload... reduce the shaft size for the bearings and cut a thread at the step, or weld a threaded collar on the engine side of the front bearing for a nut.
I decided to buy John Regan's spool instead. His use of a lock collar to control the thrust worries me a bit but he assures me it won't slip if installed correctly. So far so good.
Model A and later Fords use a double tapered roller bearing arrangement where the bearings are sharing the same waisted race. The pinion has an external thread to set the pre-load and the arrangement is close to the ring gear so lubrication is ensured.
I can't see any way to create a similar arrangement with the Model T so I am the owner of numerous Fun Project brand pinion bearings. Good engineering at a good price is always a driver in my decision and I always make sure that the FP name is on the box now that there have been similar but not identical designs on the market.
Even if I make it to 100, I expect to die with a lot of projects unfinished. So much to do, so little time. So I need to choose my battles. Certainly I can and do fix a lot of things. But with vast experience and expertise available from others, I'm not spending my time learning to do things I probably won't do more than once or twice. So I'll send my coils to the Coil Man instead of rebuilding them myself, I'll have Babbitt poured by somebody who does it all the time, and I'll use the FP pinion bearing instead of cobbling up my own version. John Regan has come up with a great product that lets me devote my time to other efforts.
There is another point to consider. The open driveshaft spools are hardened. Before they can be machined, they must be annealed. Another expense that you do not have to worry about if you buy the Funprojects product.
I don't have to change anything, because I use all original parts. Never have a problem.
I'm with Larry... there are enough parts around that there's no need to put the effort into it.
I used to think the same way as Larry, but the Fun Projects bearing saves so much labor time and is the same price as "new", or "good used" parts. PLUS I have been able to do some comparisons that make me think the Fun Projects setup is more reliable.
I have been able to inspect some of the Fun Projects units that have been in service for a few thousand miles and they have all remained in first-class condition. The Ford setup has some short-comings and some issues: Fracturing and/or loosening of the inner roller bearing race, wear of the rollers, looseness of the roller cage, wear to the inside of the "spool", etc.
And the worst problem with the Ford setup: No new Hyatt bearings available. And very few good used ones - the pinion style seems to wear worse than the axle type, no problem to find good used axle Hyatts.