Brass '15 radiator & '25 engine.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Brass '15 radiator & '25 engine.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Patterson. Australia. on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:08 am:

If I got my tiny brain into gear I guess I could probably figure this out for myself. But Forums like this make it far easier, just to ask a question.....and I'm basically lazy.
I figured that some of you have already gone down this track, so here goes.......
I'm fitting a '25 engine behind a brass radiator.
Will I need to buy a brass era '11-'16 fan bracket and a shorter fan belt?
OR....
should I just cut some meat off the fan blades?
Cheers,
Rob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:28 am:

Either way, I have seen both. Personally, I prefer the proper fan bracket, fan, and shorter belt approach myself. I think it looks better. Cutting down the blades on a later fan does generally work however. Except for parades, you really don't need a fan on most model Ts anyway. As long as they keep moving a bit, they seem to cool fine, unless there is some other issue that really needs to be fixed.
I still miss Ralph R.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Patterson. Australia. on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:44 am:

Thanks Wayne.
I forgot to mention, I have a new Texas T alloy sealed bearing fan hub, so probably will have to use the later fan anyway. What is your estimation on how much I should remove from the blades?
And yes, I miss him too.......even from way down here.
Cheers,
Rob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 02:57 am:

Rob, you will also need the earlier top water outlet on the cylinder head. I would encourage you to find the correct fan and arm.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 04:09 am:

Rob,
How much you would remove would depend upon which later fan you used. I don't know which fans were used which years, but there were two different ones after 1919. The longer tapered blades would of course need to be shortened more than the other ones. I don't have any pictures of fans that I could post.
The other fly in the ointment would be that whichever lower pulley you are going to run will affect the fan's speed also. If you are using the larger later lower pulley, you should maybe use the later fan hub to keep the fan's rpm down to a safer speed. Otherwise, I still agree with Allan B, the earlier smaller fan and pulley looks best behind a brass radiator.
Either way, you should get the earlier (shorter) fan arm to mount the fan. The brass radiator being shorter will give you some fitting trouble otherwise. The fan hub mounting bolt/shaft are different, but I believe the size and thread of the bolt/shaft are the same both early and late. I know I have mixed them up on a couple projects, and I never found one that would not work on the other.

On one of my cars, I actually cut, fit for size and shape, then welded, a later straight fan arm/bracket to look and fit like an earlier one. It seems to still be fine.

Mixing up years of parts can lead to some interesting puzzles. And I am personally not opposed to putting together a "bitsa" T (I think that the more Ts we can put back together and drive? The better!). Those little issues are usually easily solved.

I look forward to long threads showing your progress putting this together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Patterson. Australia. on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 05:23 pm:

Alan and Wayne,
Gentlemen, "Thank you" for your advice.
I already knew about the earlier water outlet and have one installed. However, I wasn't prepared for problems with the fan but thanks to you folk, its all now clear, in my minds eye, at least.
I'll attend to the job this weekend.
Cheers,
Rob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Art Wilson on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 06:52 pm:

I mistakenly installed a '26 timing cover on a rebuilt engine for my earlier car. It doesn't have the stub for the fan belt adjustment bolt. Since the engine was together and in the car when I discovered the issue, I made a bracket to accommodate the earlier adjustment feature. It spaced the fan about 1/8 in to the front. Then I had to lengthen the end of the mounting bolt to accept a cotter pin to keep the bolt from coming out.
I don't know if the '25 timing covers are the same. Something to watch out for.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Landry, Hudson, NH on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 11:39 pm:

I have a brass radiator with a '24 motor. I honestly can't remember what I ended up with, but I know I tried a couple of arms and belts, and slightly trimmed the fan blades, before I got rid of the "ping, ping, ping" at higher RPMs. Slightly bending the fan blades forward (toward the radiator) helps as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Brough on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 09:33 am:

I've put a 26/27 engine in a 1915 frame and radiator. Different water connection at the head, different fan, different fan arm and different fan belt. Everything went together until I actually tried to start the car and the fan nicked the lower radiator hose and/or the hand crank hub. Thought I needed a longer belt, but just tightened the adjustment up and everything clears, barely.

You might have to try some different combinations, but you should be able to get there without trimming the blades.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 09:38 am:

Just pretend it's a '15, and you'll be ok.


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