I can easily fix this problem by machining away part of the horseshoe in the pan, but I'm curious to know whether anyone else has experienced this. I scored a very nice straight pan at Hershey, so straight that it has perfect alignment of the fourth main, but hits my new Scat crank. I've marked the interference on the crank and the pan with pink chalk. This trial fit was done without a gasket, and the interference is so slight that a gasket would almost fix it.
This is normal with the new SCAT cranks. You will have to machine away the horseshoe, it is also recommended to use a stud in that location rather than a bolt.
there's a post from Mike Bender
I have heard that this is sometimes a problem. I recently installed one in a 26 engine and had no problem at all, but with the 3 dip pan, it might be different and that is what yours appears to be.
Yes: this is a common occurrence with the Scat crank.
As the other posters have mentioned machine down horse shoe and use shorter bolts.
Also your cotter pins are too big for the rear main nuts.
It wouldn't be the worst idea to take your engine and trans apart and clean all the parts very well. The rusty parts and carbon / dirt that I see usually isn't a very healthy environment for a $1,700.00 crank shaft.
Lester you need to safety wire those transmission shaft bolts.
The flywheel will need to come off a few more times before I safety wire it. I guess I can shorten the cotters on the main bearing nuts if it matters.
The oil pan is still just as I got it. Of course I'll clean it. Sheese you guys!
Lester, all I had to do with mine is pass the back edge of the horse shoe over a belt sander and give it a good chamfer clear into the bolt hole. There was no need to reduce the top-to-bottom thickness of the horse shoe. As others indicate, shorten that one bolt so that it does not wind through the horse shoe.
On the initial build, I had it right first go. When I later removed the inspection plate and re-fitted it, I had interference, cured by the chamfer.
Allan from down under.
I had the same problem with the front horseshoe, but not the rear.
Larry! you put a Scat crank in your car???????
Oh my, my, my!!!
Whats the world coming to!
take care my friend.
This may be a dumb question, but why don't Scat take care of this problem?
Because it is not Scats problem, it is the mechanics job to fit it. The crank is made the way it should be.
You can trim the crank a little on the whole circle on the weight, but you have to do all 4 and recheck balance.
Well, if they sell it as a replacement std Model T Ford crank, then I think it should be made to fit as is in a Model T engine. With the stroker version it's a little different - stroking takes lots of modifications to fit. Still, the thicker stroker version is the only one I would try, should I ever afford it - the std thin size SCAT can break just like the old originals http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/661905.html?1469406740
Dan McEachern......I understand that Larry also has used a Stipe 280 camshaft. What has this world come to with our 1913 Model T God..."Just Do As I Say, Not As I Do". Smile!
Nothing the matter with the crank, it is the variance in application that has to be fit. They fit 1924 to 1927's just fine.
Even Dunn weights will touch in that same spot 1923 and down, shouldn't be a big deal to anybody mechanical.