Crank hits pan

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Crank hits pan
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lester in Floyd, VA on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:09 pm:

I can easily fix this problem by machining away part of the horseshoe in the pan, but I'm curious to know whether anyone else has experienced this. I scored a very nice straight pan at Hershey, so straight that it has perfect alignment of the fourth main, but hits my new Scat crank. I've marked the interference on the crank and the pan with pink chalk. This trial fit was done without a gasket, and the interference is so slight that a gasket would almost fix it.Interference sith horseshoeCrank interference


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:27 pm:

This is normal with the new SCAT cranks. You will have to machine away the horseshoe, it is also recommended to use a stud in that location rather than a bolt.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William bender on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 03:04 pm:

there's a post from Mike Bender


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 04:18 pm:

I have heard that this is sometimes a problem. I recently installed one in a 26 engine and had no problem at all, but with the 3 dip pan, it might be different and that is what yours appears to be.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By J and M Machine Co Inc on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 04:47 pm:

Yes: this is a common occurrence with the Scat crank.
As the other posters have mentioned machine down horse shoe and use shorter bolts.
Also your cotter pins are too big for the rear main nuts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 05:12 pm:

It wouldn't be the worst idea to take your engine and trans apart and clean all the parts very well. The rusty parts and carbon / dirt that I see usually isn't a very healthy environment for a $1,700.00 crank shaft.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Lawson-Kingston,TN on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 05:28 pm:

Lester you need to safety wire those transmission shaft bolts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lester in Floyd, VA on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 05:33 pm:

The flywheel will need to come off a few more times before I safety wire it. I guess I can shorten the cotters on the main bearing nuts if it matters.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lester in Floyd, VA on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 05:36 pm:

The oil pan is still just as I got it. Of course I'll clean it. Sheese you guys!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 06:25 pm:

Lester, all I had to do with mine is pass the back edge of the horse shoe over a belt sander and give it a good chamfer clear into the bolt hole. There was no need to reduce the top-to-bottom thickness of the horse shoe. As others indicate, shorten that one bolt so that it does not wind through the horse shoe.

On the initial build, I had it right first go. When I later removed the inspection plate and re-fitted it, I had interference, cured by the chamfer.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 09:42 am:

I had the same problem with the front horseshoe, but not the rear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan McEachern on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 10:39 am:

Larry! you put a Scat crank in your car???????
Oh my, my, my!!!
Whats the world coming to!
take care my friend.
Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dean Kiefer - Adams, MN on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 06:30 pm:

This may be a dumb question, but why don't Scat take care of this problem?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting, Clare, Iowa on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 06:48 pm:

Because it is not Scats problem, it is the mechanics job to fit it. The crank is made the way it should be.

You can trim the crank a little on the whole circle on the weight, but you have to do all 4 and recheck balance.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, November 18, 2016 - 06:56 pm:

Well, if they sell it as a replacement std Model T Ford crank, then I think it should be made to fit as is in a Model T engine. With the stroker version it's a little different - stroking takes lots of modifications to fit. Still, the thicker stroker version is the only one I would try, should I ever afford it - the std thin size SCAT can break just like the old originals :-( http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/661905.html?1469406740


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Saturday, November 19, 2016 - 12:05 am:

Dan McEachern......I understand that Larry also has used a Stipe 280 camshaft. What has this world come to with our 1913 Model T God..."Just Do As I Say, Not As I Do". Smile!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting, Clare, Iowa on Saturday, November 19, 2016 - 01:26 am:

Nothing the matter with the crank, it is the variance in application that has to be fit. They fit 1924 to 1927's just fine.

Even Dunn weights will touch in that same spot 1923 and down, shouldn't be a big deal to anybody mechanical.


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