Never heard this 26/27 run and I've got it in my WWI FrankenT and it sounds like it wants to start, but just doesn't. Some pops and poofs, so I think it is close. Want to make sure I've got my coil and spark plug wires correct.
If I take all my 4 commutator wires off the 4 coils and get the 1 cylinder to TDC and hook up each wire until I find the one that buzzes the coil, that should be the number 1 position on the timer? Correct?
Then if I turn the hand crank with all three remaining commutator wires on the 2 coil until it buzzes, shut the switch off and use tril and error until I get the only wire that buzzes the coil, that should be number 2 correct?
Then connect the two remaining wires to the 4 coil and turn the crank until it buzzes, then find which one of the two wires is correct and that is number 4, correct? Then check to make sure the remaining commutator wire buzzes number 3 and I should be good to go?
1,2,4,3 turning the crank in a clockwise motion should buzz the corresponding coilds and plugs in that order correct?
Am I thinking this through correctly? Regardless of what color wire is on each end, If I get the coils and plugs firing in the right order and 1 is on 1 TDC, I should be close?
Sounds right, but here is a diagram anyway. Note that the wiring is 1, 2, 3, 4 in a row at the coil box, but 1, 2, 4, 3 (going counter-clockwise) at the timer. Remember, the camshaft and the timer roller spin in the opposite direction from the crankshaft.
Robert, I am lost here.I don't understand why you are doing it this way. Refer to the standard timer and coilboxes wiring diagram. Attach wires by color to the appropriate terminals.
The center of the spark control rod to the bolt that retains the timer should be two and a half inches, with spark lever all the way up.
Thanks Mark. I am slow, get interrupted, etc.
The 2 1/2 inch measurement works only for Ford roller timers and one or two replacement roller timers. If you're running a flapper, brush, or other replacement timer, it's best to check for proper timing this way:
Following the colors of the wires is not an option for me. Listening and feeling the buzz is the best way for me.
I'll double check everything tomorrow , connect my solenoid so I don't burn out my starter switch and keep trying.
Carb was rebuilt and it smells and feels like I'm getting gas, so I'm thinking timing right now.
Thanks for the reassurance.
The terminals marked on the picture shown by Mark are numbered for the coil which is grounded when the rotor contacts that terminal. If your wires are not colored, you can still tell which wire goes where by (with the key on) grounding one wire and finding which coil is buzzing. Then connect that wire to the terminal corresponding to that coil. You can do this quickly by taping a bit of masking tape on each wire and grounding it. Then write the number of the coil on the tape. When you have grounded and marked each wire, turn off the key and attach them to the proper terminals.
I notice that you have a 26-27 so the coils in the coil box are in the same order as the spark plugs. front to back 1,2,3,4.
Yes, coil box and coils on the engine, not the firewall. So, if 1 cyl is the closest to the radiator and 1 coil is closest to the radiator, the when 1 cyl is at TDC, the 1 coild should be buzzing and the 1 spark plug should be sparking.
Then, as I either continue with the starter on or the hand crank, it should go to 2, then jump back to 4, the closest to the firewall and then come back up to 3, and then start the process over.