Straight rear axlel and hub

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Straight rear axlel and hub
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry Kramer on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 06:06 pm:

I have a 1907 R that has straight axle ends, not tapered like a T. There is a straight key used to drive the hub and a pin held in by the hub cap to hold it all together. Many older car company's used this system to attach their rear wheels. Has anyone run into this and used a tapered key to more securely fasten the hub to the axle?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 06:13 pm:

Jerry, many stationary motors/engines used a tapered key to hold the flywheel on. They can be a real doozy to remove if they have been in place a long time. My son's friend is working one one at the moment trying to remove a flywheel so they can rebuild the con rod bearing. If the hole for the pin goes through the key, this will not work for you.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry Kramer on Wednesday, November 23, 2016 - 07:09 pm:

Allan, when I rebuilt the rear axle of my 1904 Northern, I made tapered keys to replace the straight ones. It really tightened everything up. I know most of the early fords used straight axles and was just wondering if it was overkill to make new tapered keys. By the way, we usually weld a slide hammer to stubborn tapered keys to remove them. Sometimes we have to do it several times before they came loose.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, November 24, 2016 - 10:02 am:

Model T's used the straight axle and key / pin arrangement through early calendar year 1911. It is not too good, which is why Ford improved the situation in mid 1911 model year.

You can't use a tapered key. The fix is to bore the worn out hubs big enough to install a sleeve that can be welded on each end and ground flush. Then you can re - cut the keyway and drill the pin hole through the repair. The axles usually wear in the keyway and pin holes. You can buy replacement axles or make them cheap enough.

This is a '10 axle with wallered out pin hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry Kramer on Thursday, November 24, 2016 - 01:01 pm:

Royce, Thanks for the reply. My hubs, axles, keys and pins are a snug fit now, but obviously not as tight as a tapered axle setup would be. I was just wondering if using a tapered key would help keep it snug for a longer time. I was not trying to remedy a worn out situation.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Thursday, November 24, 2016 - 01:32 pm:

Jerry, let's see some pics of the R! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry Kramer on Thursday, November 24, 2016 - 01:54 pm:

Gotta get the wheels back first, looks forlorn sitting there without its shoes.


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