The frame on my 26 Roadster is not sitting level. Looking from the front, the passenger fender is obviously higher than the drivers side fender. If I place a level across the frame behind the radiator, bubble indicates the frame is off level same as the fender visual indication. I loosened the front spring clamp and repositioned the frame on the spring (pulled up on drivers side fender) to get the bubble to indicate level. The fenders look good now as viewed from the front. Measurements from fenders to floor are same. However, when I tighten the spring clamp, the frame goes back to the same unlevel (per bubble) as when I began. Frame at rear was off level as well but was able to level it. Loosened rear spring clamps, repositioned frame on spring and retightened. Any suggestions re frame front issue?
Sounds like your front spring has taken a set over the years. In other forum posts, I have seen recommendations to take the front spring apart and flip every other leaf around to even out the set.
That would be worth a try.
Is the top of the thru bolt in the hole in the center of the crossmember? If it is off center, your spring clamp could be tighter on one side than the other.
Spring bolt head is in the frame hole. Something is causing the spring clamp to pull the frame off-level. Clamp is type with two nuts that pull a plate up under the spring. If it were the four nut type I probably could tighten one side more than the other and get the frame level.
I think it was mentioned once or twice before that if the rubber pad, frame to spring, 21/27, is worn on one side you end up not sitting level.
The front crossmember may have taken a lot of beating over the years - check it closely with the clamp / engine mount off, so it isn't cracked and needs to be welded.
I will replace the spring pad.
At some point in it's life, the frame has been welded in the area where the spring center bolt head comes thru the frame. I will check the frame condition in that area. What do I need to do to get the front engine mount off the frame?
Maybe removing the radiator and the engine mount clamp makes it possible to lift the engine slightly in the front with a jack, so the spring clamp can be slided off sideways?
The throttle and spark controls plus the gas line will probably also have to be disconnected.
I am definitely in with the spring swapping idea. I believe it will answer your questions. If you're going to change the pad any way I would swap the spring end for end as it's only a bit more work. It could change nothing, level out or tilt the other way but you'll get a result in any case. It'll give you a clear view of the frame internals too.
While you have the spring off, check carefully each leaf. You could have one or more broken. That also could account for the sag.
While it's off and if it has not been done; clean and lube between the leafs (no paint) with grease or slip plate. The only paint that should be on a spring is on the outside after the pack has been assembled.
I have absolutely no experience working with Model T springs. I have worked on other early Ford suspensions, and I remember that a spring spreader was essential. Is there a spreader for the T springs? Is there a safe way to disassemble the T springs from the axles without one? Where does one get a T spreader if such a thing is required?
You don't need a spring spreader for the front spring. You can even take out the center bolt without a problem after the spring is removed. If you want to be safe use a large c clamp while you remove the bolt and then slowly back off the clamp. The rear spring is another story.
Thanks for all the spring related suggestions. This has been bugging me for some time. Came home from back surgery today so.will be a while before I can work.