How to change the "pesky" rear axle thrust washer pins..

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: How to change the "pesky" rear axle thrust washer pins..
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 06:11 pm:

Im rebuilding the rear axle in my 27 and had to change a couple of the thrust washer pins. I had one sheared off and one had two chips out of it. I thought there may be some out there who have never changed them before, so I and took some pics. They sell a little kit to do this but it is basically the same things I use.

The pesky little bugger with chipped edges ...
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The first thing to do is center punch the center of the offending pin. try and be as accurate as you can.
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The next thing is to drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole at the center punch mark. I put tape on the drill bit to show the length of the new pins, so I would know how deep to drill. But usually you will feel when the drill makes it thru the old pin as there is a small cavity below the pin.
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The next thing is to drill a #21 hole for the 10/32 tap. If you do not have a #21 drill bit, a 5/32 drill bit will work.
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Now you need to tap the hole out to 10/32 threads using a starter tap and then a bottom tap. Take your time and clean the threads up with compressed air as you go. You do not want to break the tap off. :-( :-( that would be a bad day...
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After cleaning out the threads, you will place the bushing over the hole. Make sure the bushing will allow the old pin to be pulled up into it. A little loose is OK as you do not want to jam the old pin into the bushing and break the 10/32 bolt while extracting the old pin. After placing the bushing over the old pin, place the washer on the bushing. Then screw the 10/32 bolt into the threads you just tapped into the old pin. Make sure to have the nut installed on the 10/32 bolt before you install it into the old pin. Screw the 10/32 bolt all the way in. Do not over tighten, just snug. Then run the nut down till it touches the washer and then take a small wrench to tighten the nut. As you tighten the nut it will pull out the old pin
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This shows the old pin after being pulled.
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All that's left to do is drive in the new pin. Sometimes the new pins will be loose in the housing hole. I think it is a repro problem as all my NOS pins have always fit tight. But if you have to use a repro pin, you can "stake it into place by using a small pipe that fits over the pin or a drift punch with a hole drilled into the end to fit over the new pin. By using the pipe or drift you can drive down (stake) the metal of the housing to tighten up the pin in the hole.
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here are pics of everything needed to install the pins, without buying the kit.
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I know this is not rocket science, but I thought there may be someone who has never did this before... Have fun and be safe.... Donnie Brown ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 06:29 pm:

That's pretty much how I do it also. My only problem is drilling a straight hole into the old pin. Seems I'm directional challenged when I have a drill motor in my hands. Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 07:25 pm:

A long time ago, I watched my dad do this: after drilling the center of the pins, he screwed in sheet metal screws. He then took a claw hammer and pulled the pins out, just like pulling nails out of a board. I think he clipped the ends of the screws to remove the point/taper so there would be full contact when he screwed them into the pins.

I think others have used this same trick.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 07:57 pm:

Donnie

Nice set of tools and good how-to.

Have another tool, a drill guide for the drill, place it over the stub, and drill is on center.

Most times the old pin comes out sticking to the modified 3/16" drill bit. Bit has a pilot point ground on the end.









Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 08:03 pm:

I've done it almost the same way, but used an easy out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 08:46 pm:

I drill the hole and use a hard screw in my dent puller.Just a tap or two and they pop right out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charles Weisgerber- Vancouver WA. on Saturday, November 26, 2016 - 11:43 pm:

Great thread Donnie. As soon as I get my axle housings back from the hot chemical strippers, I'll be doing the same thing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 04:27 am:

Been a while now, seems like I just ran the tap in until it bottomed and kept on turning, allowing it to push against the bottom of the hole and pull the pin out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 08:02 am:

I have done something like that a few times in the past but after threading the I just threaded a long bolt or screw in and let it bottom out in the hole, pushing out the pin. Your idea of using the oversize bushing is good. I probably will do that next time. On a larger diameter part, actually a pilot bushing in something, can't remember what, I saw someone thread a hole, screw in a grease fitting and pump grease in, pushing the part out. Kinda messy and not 100% safe, I guess, possibly building up quite a bit of pressure with the grease.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 08:04 am:

I would like to see pics of the reassembly from the point of replacing the pins onward.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown North Central Arkansas on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 09:09 am:

Lots of good ideas. There is always more than one way to do a job. I have used the screw and slide hammer to pull them out before. It works good, but I broke a screw off in the hole once, so I settled on the bushing/jack screw method. It seems to give a more controlled removal. Tommy, I think there have been some discussions already about the assembly of the rear axle. Im not real good at finding old threads, Maybe someone can post a link or two about them ....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Warren on Sunday, November 27, 2016 - 09:46 am:

Thanks Donnie, great article. One thing that needs to be mentioned, It is ok to grind a pin flat to more easily center punch and drill. Thanks again.


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