My situation is that I had a knock in a '20 engine, not so much at lower RPM, I probably could drive it as it was. The valve lifters were all over the place, so they were set to .012.
It seemed to be a better engine at this point but the knock was still present.
The inspection plate was removed and the rod caps checked. the clearance was .008-.012. (varied) and using plastiguage we brought the clearance down to .004-.006 depending on how we thought we could fine tune the thickness of the shims. (couldn't seem to take them down any less that .004 at a time.)
Now there seems to be a new noise that we can't easily locate but may be #1.
Having said all of that and after much review of old posts on this forum I gather that the rods should be .0015-.002
further The rods were torqued to 35 plus as needed to get to the next castelation. I am quite concerned that I may have way over torqued the bolts and may have missed the "click" of the wrench thus ending at who knows how tight. In hind sight I should have backed off and started again.
This is all a long way of asking the following:
Could I have actually damaged the rods? Twisted them? The Head didn't come off, the wrist pins were never touched.
Am I correct in looking for .0015-.002?
I'm thinking I should start with new bolts and nuts.
While I'm in there can I simply torque the mains?
What else can I look at with the inspection plate off?
One more thing, I see people talk of torque to X if dry and different if oiled. How do I deal with that idea?
Thanks so much, be gentle with me I'm just trying to learn and get it right
Your rods may have been talking to you a little, but I would also shake the camshaft and see if you have a front cam bearing knock. Doubt you hurt anything.
Four thousandths (.004") is too loose La Trek.
Take more shims out, even if you get zero clearance. If you can still hand crank the engine you'll be Ok.
Once you get it started let it run at fast idle for 20 minutes, it'll be OK.
Thanks for the info.
I think I'll take up the rods using plastiguage, put Prussian blue on various parts so if it still knocks maybe there will be something to see.
Any thoughts on the mains, should I check torque?
I believe you can use CH--y 350 rod bolts, grind off the roughness near the head by putting them in a drill press and using a file. Use self locking nuts for final assembly. A quick check on fit is to use standard newspaper under the cap. Alternate sides in taking out the shims to keep them even until the rod won't turn. Take out the paper and you're at .0015. I use standard nuts on the rods until I get the right fit, then switch to locking nuts.
The plast gage is useless on used rods because they wear egg shaped. Use the technique outlined in the Ford shop manual for good results.
Don't pay any attention to torque. (But if you do anyway, don't go to 35+ ft-lbs. That's too much.) Just tighten them to the cotter pin hole and let it be. By now however you may have pulled the threads some.
The Doc has the right idea for ya