Finished the hogshead for the touring.
I have just the second working speedometer I have ever had on a model T. The Corbin unit on my new roadster works beautifully. The impetus to get the set up installed and working was the recent purchase of an almost new swivel joint. I have even had it nickel plated as original.
Allan from down under.
I am awaiting parts so I thought I would paint the manifolds and carb. Used hi temp ceramic, was told to cure in oven. I used BBQ grill to avoid divorce or getting maimed. Pictures speak for themselves. Ugh. Going to clean and start over. Think I'll just let the engine heat cure them
Took the front wheels off the '20 to take them to Stutzmans next week. Other than that, nothin much. Too cold out to drive. So I lurk the forum.
I know you put them on the BBQ grill but they may have turned out better if you didn't baste them with BBQ sauce!
What's all the red stuff on the inside the hogshead, Steve?
Burger, you're asking for a bunch of guff posting that engine picture. It looks great to me but I bet others will disagree.
What is insulating varnish for? What are you insulating?
John, It is Glyptal or something similar. Most pro engine rebuilders use it on the inside of the blocks to aid in oil circulation and cleanliness. The insulating varnish Steve is using may be the same or similar to Glyptal. Insulating varnish is used on the magneto spools and also starter and generator windings. Here is a link to Eastwood Supply and their Glyptol
Tried to inject some new blood into the hobby. This is my 24 yr old son making our WWI light patrol car's maiden voyage.
Neither of us had ever driven a T before. Sturggled with coils, plugs and valves over the holiday and finally got it running well enough to stretch her legs.
Great video Robert! The car sounds like it is running well.
Sound great!! Tim
I have a stack of Hurt Feelings Reports right here in case
anyone gives me guff.
Oh yeah, ... almost forgot .... I don't care !
I guess I can hand them out to anyone else who might get
a hurt feeling.
Robert, the car is looking good.
Glyptal is a brand name, like Kleenex or Band-Aid. It's very expensive. The generic product name is red insulating varnish (or enamel), and the Sprayon version is not very expensive. Of course, like oil, the more expensive one is much better.
Today I took my 26 for a run around the block to free her up and a little transmission test. Ran very well What a thrill Life is Good !!
12-01-2016 at Merrimack Valley Tire, the Leblanc Bros. getting Ken's '26 TT running for the first time decades!!!! Ken is one HAPPY CAMPER, and it couldn't have been happening for a greater guy.
Bob, that's wonderful! Runs great and looks fantastic!
Eck, that wasn't your first drive was it? Woohoo!
Warren, that truck of Ken's runs nice! Started just like it's supposed to. Looks like a Texas T dizzy. Set it and forget it. ;-)
Hey Burger nice motor stand!
I am getting excited about driving the 26 Touring again. It has been sitting for over 2 1/2 years now. A bunch of crud in the fuel tank.
Will attempt to fire it up tomorrow.
Good going, Robert, Ken and Warren on getting the T's to run. Keep up the good work!
Tom in Tehachapi, CA
Put the final coat of primer on the new wheels for my towncar and an additional set for a friend. Hoping to paint them dark blue next week and finally get tires back on.
Also got these neons mounted on the wall in the shop. From the early thirties, but they're pretty neat.
Odds and ends work on my speedster. I'm slowly getting there. I bought the lumber for a miniaturized pick up bed (Birch). $230.00
My second but first time I got it in high gear . I have had the car for 35 years stored in shop buried with junk. Have 3 year old grandson so decided now is the time to bring it to life. Got it started in July for the first time but would not move. New bands and clutch adjustments cured that now on to the brakes and wiring to lights. Hope to have it road worthy by summer. I will tinker during cold weather. A lot of learning curve . Lots of body work but it will be back !!
Tom, tsk tsk... :-)
What did I get done in the last 3 days? Not as much as I should have. Still didn't get the Rayfield UF done that is driving me insane, fought with it all day today, back from getting something to eat, back to the shop at 9:51 PM.
Three club members all gave starters during the latter part of November and one decided that while I was doing one he may as well give me six. Two were in terrible shape, one with no guts and the other solid with rust. I also had two spares from Chickasha that needed work.
The two on the left have brand new coils and are six volt. The others are all wired for twelve volts and use recovered old stator coils. It has taken two weeks but it keeps me out of trouble...
I think, I'm close to have Sambuca, my 1917 Canopy Express Delivery back on the road. I could not get the Ruckstell to shift. Asked Ken LeBlanc, if I could bring it down Thursday night to the shop and use the parts cleaner on it. A group of use meet at Merrimack Valley Tire each week to work on our Ts and just have fun. On Friday I took it over to Dick Welch's and he fixed it right away.
The doodlebug has been hard starting, I think the gasket is burnt out on the last exhaust port and may be burnt to the intake causing a slight leak. I can only get it to fire on some either sprayed in a port in the intake, so I think a gasket replacement is in order.
Once I did get it started today, I installed the tire chains and hooked the plow up, weather guy seems to think we might get some snow.
Today a friend and I attended the Pomona CA swap meet. Haven't attended in ten years or so but decided to go because I haven't seen my friend for awhile.
On the last row of vendors I was browsing a table full high performance Chevy parts and saw a Holley G carb sitting next to other parts. It was in excellent condition asked the guy how much and $20 later it was mine. It's a brass model.
Got it home and it looks like it's never been used, it's in great condition. Just needs a new float and gaskets.
I'm closer to have Sambuca, my 1917 Canopy Express Delivery back on the road. I am planning on taking Sambuca out for a road test this weekend, if all goes well.
Just made the first run with this 1914 runabout after it was underwater in June. Now I can start the finishing.
1916 Block: crack repaired ,hardened seats bored .030" over.
Tired of annoying gas leak so I found a fishing weight and made a lead gasket for my carb bowl.
Finally installed new King Pins to tighten up the front end.
Put Back Together
I don't like the look of New parts on my Old car; will have to hit with some flat black paint to get rid of that New look
FINALLY closing in on this engine project
It is getting a Mark Chaffin BB Rajo
Les, I wish there was a LIKE button to hit!
Not going to make it north for the party, too cold, too much snow and got invited to help play for a Western Swing dance to raise money for the needy kids and other folks in Livingston Friday night, thought I should go help.
That block just looks so weird with the 5 main crank in it.
I got the Rayfield UF done, run and on the way, now on a Stromberg OX-3 going to California. Spent most of the day at the Dr. back in the shop tonight -- right after a little nap in the pickup. Just got home so it is warm in the pickup, colder than all get out outside, about 4 above and getting colder right now.
FINALLY got my gas re-route and plumbing up to code done and got the gas turned back on Monday AM just before I went to the Dr for the night and day, everything toasty warm again. Back to the shop to pay the bill.
Spent the morning mining for parts.
Looks like the mud daubers have been busy again!
1924 Model TT fire truck from NY.
Says it was originally purchased to protect Rockefeller estate.
I in stalled a new 6 volt LED light in Seabiscuit's stop light.
@James - use "Cast Blast". It's like M&M's - won't melt in your hands like the other brand of "high heat" paints do.
@Les - if you are going overhead why all the work splitting ports?
Your spring perches are reversed. Might want to change that.
Jerry, Thank you for the alert. Wonderful benefit of sharing photos of your projects here on the Forum; the keen eyes of folks sharing their knowledge and experience with you.
The easy way to orient front perches:
This boss goes toward the back.
Steve Jelf, what program are you using to mark your photo? Can you also tell us how to change the font on our forum posts. Thanks in advance.
I don't know what program Steve uses, but when I want to add text or artwork to a photo, I import the photo into Microsoft Powerpoint. I make my mods, group everything into a single object, then right click on the object and save it as a picture (.jpg file) with a different name so that I don't mess up the original.
Thank you Mark and Steve,for showing the correct perch orientation. I ordered the front and rear axle book for complete details.
One suggestion I received was to disconnect the wishbone and spindles from the front axle and just reverse the front axle by 180 degrees with perches, shackles and spring intact. May be easier than reversing the perches. Thanks for the help.
If you do that, you may have to also swap spindles side-to-side. You want the threads on the spindles set up so that normal, forward rotation of the front wheels is trying to "unscrew", or loosen, the outer front wheel bearing.
This means you want RH threads on the driver's side and LH threads on the passenger side.
To add text or drawing on photos I use Gimp. It's not wonderfully user-friendly, but it's free. Maybe it would be easier if I used it more often. Of course, make a copy and alter that. You want to keep the original photo in case you need it later. To change your font, click Formatting at the top of this page.
Yes, turning the axle around is most likely much easier than switching the perches. Getting them out of the axle is often a major headache. And yes, you have to leave the spindles where they are.
Based on my own observations, the right and left spindle bushings wear at different rates. The wear is typically greater on the passenger side, most likely because of the crown in the road. Similarly, the yokes at the ends of the axle wear wear faster on the passenger side.
If you turn the axle around instead of swapping the perches, you may find that that the spindles don't fit as well as they did prior to turning the axle around.
Just something to consider.
Back to "what did you do today?":
It was 17 degrees F in Hillsboro, MO this morning, so I put the winter front on Betsy before my morning drive.
The winter front is just a piece of cardboard that I cut to shape and sprayed black. The edges are crushed flat so that it will slip between the radiator shell and the fins.
You need to put some advertising on that "chest protector" - see this thread:
I have to add something about reversing the axle, that can of course be done but speaking of the perches you can not always go by the centering boss to go to the back, I got into doing this twice because my perches did not have that boss, they must have been changed out long ago, I add also I bought both perches new for the second time I had to do this, it is the angle of the pin that goes through the axle NOT the angle of the shackle boss that sets the correct caster in case you find the boss is not there!
Good point, see the left hand drawing in the illustration above in my 12/8 post.
Working on the Warford;
The brown at the base of the tower is from the flash.
I'm curious as to your comment of right hand thread on drivers side and left hand on passenger side. Somehow I was thinking the opposite. Would the correct way you are suggesting be to prevent a tightening effect that would cause bearing failure?
I'm not far enough along on my T to have looked at this yet. The last left hand threads I worked on were on Dodge cars of the 60's. I thought they were on the driver side. But... I don't trust my memory!
Suddenly a bit of memory restored itself!
It was the lug nuts, not the wheel bearing nuts on the Dodges!
Rebuilt and installed 6V generator...Starter next.
Although, 2 days ago I retrieved my Rootlieb Speedster kit from the importing agent and its looking very tempting.
David - You "jarred" my memory! I remember those lug nuts,....one side of the car was left-hand threads and the other side was the opposite! And I believe that was on all Chrysler Corporation cars,.... not just the Dodges! (......and it was a nuisance! .....harold
Mopars had LH lug nuts on the driver's side through 1970. An obscure engineering study had found that loose RH thread lugnuts on the driver's side (loose being defined as less than 20 foot-pounds) could unscrew themselves while driving.
Apparently, Chrysler changed its mind and decided to follow the rest of the industry with all RH thread lugnuts in 1971.
I finally finished rebuilding the rear end for the 27 touring car. It is for our main "tour car" so I basically replaced everything. Then I made a little tag that hangs on one pinion spool bolt and wires to another bolt. That should remind me when I rebuilt it. Or let the next owner at least know the babbit washers have been changed to brass washers. Before the next time I rebuild a rear end I want to get a small set of stamps, so I can also list all the parts replaced, not just the brass washers. All that's left to do is get a somewhat warm day and give it a quick shot of paint. If anyone notices that it is not 12/11/16 yet. That is the date I chose as the date I would be finished. got it done a little early Now that the rear end is out of the way, I can finally get started finishing the speedster project ...........
(Message edited by dobro1956 on December 09, 2016)
Donnie, that tag is a great idea!
Donnie, what a great idea. I should do that on all my cars, so I can remember what I have done!!!!
Allan from down under.
With the tag on top of the spool, and after I paint everything, including the tag. It should be almost invisible, unless looking closely. My tags are stainless, but brass or aluminum should make a good permanent tag.
Well, Derrick Pang is turning into quite the T'r. Got a call from him when was having a little trouble tonight while he and his girl were out driving. Car started to act sluggish, no effect with spark control. So with the engine still running, hops out, pops the hood and sees sparks flying of the timer. The previous weekend he took his car to the monthly T Garage put on by members of the LongBeach T Club. They checked and installed a new(rebuilt) generator. Seems some one didn't tighten up the gen. bolts enough . Bolt backed out and the timer hold down strap dropped and the timer came out a little bit. Our young hero Derrick (D'Artagnan) whips out the wrench and fixes the problem on the road !!! He's getting it !!! Martynn Vowell and I had been helping him when he first got the car. It's times like this that make a fellar damn proud of that youngin' Well done young sir ! Well done.
Started gathering up parts in my shop. When the weather warms up above freezing they're going to move to the barn and be out of my way.
Worked on my three lever, two pedal racer.
Mike, I've been trying to figure out your set up, but how exactly does all that work?
Mike, I got another look at your "racer" a few days ago. It is very interesting. I can't wait to here the beast run ...
No pictures but today I took Carl (1911 touring) out for another leisurely drive, thirty miles total. Probably pissed off some people driving 30mph but I don't care. Dog went along too, she's my driving partner.
Looks like Carl needs some bands pretty soon, made adjustments last weekend and nothing improved.
Not having the proper Ford Z tool, I made a clutch drum puller. I was pleased to find that it actually works.
cleaned and weighed rods,ready for Babbitting.
Speaking of ,right and left hand threads, I'll bet a lot of guys here have had the experience of starting the car (any car) on jack stands with the lug nuts, or axle nuts on your T, just loosely on and found them all over the floor when you started it, there is something to the left hand thread idea.
here are some exhaust manifold that I straightened this weekend
Got my new Stromberg OF the other day. It was in really good shape. I tore it down and all the passages were clean no junk in anything. Even the float valve seals tight! I have ordered a new Viton tip valve and seat from Stan. Can't wait to get it on my roadster. PK