I lost my oil cap. According to the encyclopedia brass caps with Ford and "made in USA" were used until Feb 1914, then replaced by a steel 6 fluted cap with Ford script. Mine is Jan 14 so I guess I need a brass cap. I had one before, repot without made in USA. I had a 6 fluted steel cap laying around here somewhere that I was going to use but it had no Ford script. Was this an aftermarket item? I was about to buy one off eBay but it has no script, and I guess I need the brass one anyway but was wondering about the 6 fluted non-script steel caps.
Rodda says there are a lot of them around, and that they may have been used concurrently with the script caps, or maybe sold as replacements. I can believe that both were used concurrently. It seems that was the case with smooth and stepped drive shaft housings.
I have yet to see a 6 fluted steel cap with a Ford script in Australia. All the ones I have have no script.
Allan from down under.
There are some repro steel caps with Ford script and words "pat in USA".
With engine open to public didn't want to loose mine. Purists need not comment.
Try this https://www.modeltford.com/item/3068.aspx
Looks like this will work for you.
Mine either got swiped or vibrated off. -I phoned Lang's, bought another one and bent it a little so it fit nice and snug. -I'd hate for some souvenir-hunting thief to wind up with a non-snug fitting oil cap.
The 1913 - 14 version without Made in USA has never been reproduced. They are not uncommon at Hershey or Chickasha, but not too cheap either. You can expect to pay $30 - $45 for a decent one that has lots of deep scratches and is tarnished black with a broken out screen.
Actually the 13-14 version has been reproduced, but the Ford script is terrible. It was originally made by Sheldon Greenland back in the '60s, and still is being made by someone else, but it is still incorrect. It's too bad they didn't do their homework.
Who sells them?
After loosing mine I am going to do as Gary and add a chain to the one I just got. Already added chain to gas cap after loosing a couple. Got to remember to screw it back in after checking gas!
I glued a magnet inside and also a chain but anchored it inside so its not visible from the outside. The magnet may keep yours stuck to the splash pan and off the road if you don't have a tether.
I may go to Chickasha this year, it's been about 6 years since I've been. I'll keep my eyes open. I'd like to get the right one sometime. I've got the 3 fluted cap for now. I still need a few more pieces I might find there. Now I know what exactly to look for. I like the magnet idea, wouldn't be visible, but would be my luck the glue would fail when I remove the cap and the magnet would fall inside. Thanks for all the responses.
Royce: Open the above link, it's from Langs. Why use a magnet or drill holes? I solder a light brass chain to the inside of my cap, and wrap the other end around the timing gear cover bolt. A real no brainer!
That's the only one I have ever seen reproduced. It has no Made In USA engraved in it, so it is typical of late 1911 - 1912 only.
The oil cap on my '18 roadster with a 20 something (hell, I don't remember what year) engine is a loose one. Scared it'll bounce out (Pfft. Duane rolls his eyes), I use a piece of wire to snug it up.
The '24 Crappy T roadster here uses a model A riser tube and cap and it refuses to fall out. :-) It vibrates itself tight and I have to figure out how to get it out using the combination. 1/4 turn left. No. 1/2 turn right. Almost. Aha! There it is!
When I fill up the oil, the whole darned thing comes out.
I like the chain idea!
Sorry about the thread drift Corey...