It's a T salad anyway, but did T's that have starters on them have dual choke wires, one through the radiator for crank starts and one through the firewall to choke the engine from inside the cabin for starter starts?
I presume an inner wire and a few bumps of the starter switch with the ignition off would get the engine choked and then turn the ignition on and another bump of the starter foot switch to get it going, all from inside the car.
Any photos of such a set up would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, starter equipped T's had dual choke wires. The upper wire goes to a bellcrank that is riveted to the dash. The other end of the bellcrank has a rod that pokes through the dash and has a pull knob on the end. Here is a link to an earlier thread with pictures of the bellcrank:
Here is a video of the dash choke knob in action:
Don't forget the priming wire, which makes it three. The mid year 25-27's used the later style swivel joint type.
To repeat Steve's question -- what the he-- is the "priming wire"?
One from inside to the bellcrank, one from the bellcrank to the carb and then the priming wire from the carb to the front of the radiator makes 3.
The choke butterfly is closed to prime the motor. So the wire in front or the knob inside is pulled for a couple of rev of the engine to "PRIME" it.
Carb and exhaust side of 1922 Model T with starter.
Photograph shows the following.
Note that the carburetor has a choke wire to the front of the engine past the radiator and it is attached to a bell crank on the carburetor that has a wire going into the "firewall" to operate the choke butterfly from inside the car. The other rod from the carburetor is the needle valve adjustment for the fuel to adjust the mixture as needed. The wire to the left of the intake and attached to the carburetor is to operate the throttle, that is attached to an arm at the bottom of the steering column.
I stand corrected!
So, if I'm summarizing this topic correctly, I currently have the long rod/wire from the choke butterfly through the radiator shell and loops outside the front of the T to manually choke the carb with the hand crank.
To complete this same operation from inside the T, I sould leave that setup alone and add an additional wire/rod coming up from the butterfly to a bellcrank mounted on the underhood side of my wooden firewall and then a wire/rod from that bellcrank coming through a drilled hole in the wooden firewall to some sort of knob and plate to manually pull and choke the carb while pressing the starter switch with the ignition off to prime the engine.
TO THE WALLET!!
Of course you need two choke wires. You have two starters, one manual and one electric!
So when did they go to the needle valve adjusting rod with the slip joint that combined choke & adjustment?
1926-1927 had the choke rod and adjustment together. Others before had a separate adjustment from the inside choke.
The combination choke and adjuster rod actually came out in the late 1925 models.