Pinion spool , bearings, and gear

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Pinion spool , bearings, and gear
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Monday, December 05, 2016 - 11:51 pm:

[URL=http://s738.photobucket.com/user/thomc1957/media/1205161956_zpsube1cyfl.jpg.html][IMG]http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/xx24/thomc1957/1205161956_zpsube1cyfl.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
These are the parts I will use to reassemble the driveshaft for my '21. The pinion gear is NOS. The bearings look great.The spool has some dark spots on the inside ,not pits, seem to be just stains. I can't feel them, but can see them. I'm thinking about making a few quick passes thru with a cylinder hone. What do you think?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 01:06 am:

I think I would send that spool to John Regan as a trade-in on a Fun Projects bearing kit and ditch that other stuff. I will never go back to the stock setup.

You didn't say anything about the inner sleeve. It's often cracked.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 07:23 am:

My driveshaft is new also. If I use this stuff, what else is required, besides the six bolts that fasten the spool to the housing?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 07:38 am:

You need a sleeve that goes on the driveshaft. It is the inner bearing surface for the roller bearing. Also a woodruff key, a special short castle nut to hold the gear on, and a cotter pin. I'd make sure the area of the thrust bearing which shows wear where the end of the sleeve has been running, is good. Usually, you just turn that whole thrust bearing assembly around and the other side is good. It all should work just fine!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 07:43 am:

I just realized that the bearing does not "run" on the driveshaft but on an inner sleeve and also doesn't run against the inside of the housing but against an outer sleeve, correct? Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 07:58 am:

A couple of other items...lock waters on the 6 bolts and gasket(s) for the spool. Thickness/quantity of gaskets in the spool to rear end may vary for the pinion to ring gear fit. A gasket also between the spool and driveshaft housing. A 0.015 inch thick one there is good enough. Don't put it between the thrust bearing and end of the driveshaft housing. It needs to be metal to metal.

Assemble the driveshaft, thrust bearing, inner sleeve, woodruff key, pinion, and castle nut. There should be no gaps between the thrust/sleeve or the sleeve/bearing. I use the pinion to shove the sleeve in to place. I also put a little anti-seize between the sleeve and driveshaft. I like to fit it snug but not drawing a gaul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 08:01 am:

The roller bearing runs on the inner sleeve and the bare spool. The earlier "enclosed" spools had a separate outer sleeve but the later spools didn't.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 08:09 am:

You'll want to put a new brass style drives haft bushing in the front of the driveshaft housing. You'll most likely have to face it off as it will be too thick. You do it just enough to get the pin in the u-joint. The u-joint to front bushing clearance should be 0.003 to 0.005 inch clearance. Make sure the back side of your u-joint is clean, smooth, and flat, where it bears on the bushing. Once the bushing is good, drill it for the grease cup before final assembly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 08:52 am:

Picture of OEM pinion bearing parts. These were on my Ebay Ruckstell. I sold them and installed a Fun Projects non-adjustable pinion bearing setup.

The three notches in the housing were added by a previous owner, supposedly in an attempt to improve lubrication of the Hyatt bearing. Most folks seemed skeptical of the usefulness of the modification.

There seemed to be some debate at the time I first posted the picture of whether the plain washer next to the pinion gear belonged there or not, don't remember if that was ever resolved. :-)

pic


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 10:02 am:

There are no lock washers. The '21 spool nuts are castle nuts and the studs are drilled so that you can safety wire them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 10:59 am:

I thought that "open" spools used bolts instead of studs like the closed style. If so, are the bolt heads drilled for safety wire? Why did Ford use the odd size 13/32 bolts and studs? Anybody ever drill and rethread to a more readily available size?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 11:33 am:

FWIW, the bolts on the standard open-spool rear axle in my '24, and on my Ebay Ruckstell have split lockwashers under the bolt heads. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 11:40 am:

The 8-5-28 parts book lists the cap screws (bolts) for 1912-1927. If studs needed to be replaced on pre-1921 cars, Ford expected it to be done with cap screws. They weren't trying to keep the cars "correct". The book also lists nuts for those who are keeping the studs. I've seen some spools with a combination of studs and cap screws. Both are available from the parts dealers.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 01:17 pm:

I'm thinking a quick way to tell which spool the rear axle should have is to look at the hole in the rear axle housings where the driveshaft assembly fits in. If it has a flat face, it uses the open bolt type spool. If it has a rabbit, it uses the enclosed spool. I have seen them mixed over the years but can't say they came from the factory that way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 02:55 pm:

I forgot to say...I believe sometime around 1921 is when the change of the enclosed to open spool took place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 - 03:34 pm:

The bolts are much easier to use. Royal PIA aligning the safety wire holes when using the studs and nuts


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