The drip rail on my Centerdoor is pulling away at the rear. The wood in the top is sound except for a small area immediately surrounding the screws holding the drip rail in place. Has any one dealt with this successfully and if so how did they do it. I was thinking about cleaning the area around the loose screws to get to solid wood and glueing a dowel in place or filling the hole with JB weld but wondered if there was a better way.

On a solid but much used set of top bows,I cut tooth pi.cks in half,dipped in glue,and tapped them in.Allow to dry and then cut/sand off

Val, I would not use J B Weld on wood. It depends on what's happened to the wood--if it's gotten rot into it, you have to treat the wood with something that will kill the fungus amongst us--it's deeper in the wood than one sees, so it has to be something that will soak into the wood. Then I would use something like quik-poly or a wood restores (usually a modified epoxy product), or even glue in a piece of wood--the problem with putting doweling in, is the grain is oriented wrong to provide strength to hold screws or nails. Plug,s however will work.

Thanks David, that sounds like the way I should go. There doesn't seem to be much wood rot. It seems like the screws have rusted away. Anyone know what the best thing would be to use to penetrate the surrounding wood to stabilize it? I have quik-poly on hand and was wondering about mixing oak saw dust into it and filling the hole that way before drilling it for new screw.
Jack I have used your method to reattach top iron stand offs with great success but was afraid it would not be strong enough to take the stress of body flexing.

Val, I've used quick poly and sawdust, works pretty well. It's very runny, so be careful or it will flow down to stuff underneath it!! (I'm assuming your car is together, so you don't want to get it on the other parts.)

Thanks again Dave. That is what I will do.