The starter locks up when I try to start so, after reading on the forum about removing a starter, I first removed the bendix cover, then the 2 bolts that hold the spring, then the spring. Not sure where to go next. The pictures show where I am at this point. The gear on the shaft seems to be nice and free. What's next? Thanks

The starter drive end piece that had the bolt in it you removed should slip off. You may have to use a screwdriver or something to carefully get the end piece to pull off. Once its off then the Bendix will pull right off.
The end piece is a fairly tight slip fit. The small key sometimes makes the end piece fairly tight to get off.

Take your time and you can remove it.

John, now you can slide the whole assembly off till all that remains is the shaft. Sometimes you have to slightly pry it off since it has a key-way that keeps it aligned.

Thanks John and John. I'll let you know how that works out. Appreciate the help. Thanks, John

Ford made a small puller for the Bendix head if it is stuck on the shaft. A small battery terminal puller also works.

The attached pic shows the puller with the bendix head to show the part that the puller fits.

Photo showing the drive collar off. Be careful of the tiny Woodruff key as you can drop it or worst it goes into the opening if it stay in the starter shaft when you pull the starter motor.

Sure appreciate the help. The bendix came out okay with a gentle nudge of a screwdriver and all seems to be in good shape. Looks like what was causing the problem was the front shaft bushing. It was pretty well shot. I'll get that back in place and hopefully take old Velma for a ride soon. In the meantime Velma has 4 new tubes and some better tires--used but pretty good, all new wiring and plugs, hoses and clamps and a few other odds and ends. I was surprised when I removed the head. All the cylinders are 3.75 and the cylinder walls are nice and slick. The last activity I noticed on the old title was in 1967 and Velma was stored with a lot of hay all over the place. Wish I'd gotten a fresh bale to put in the back seat. That would fit right in. Thanks again for the help.

Try to not let the key (that stays on the shaft) fall once the end piece is removed because you will never find it. Look at the 2 bolts you removed on the ends of the bendix spring. The longer one locks the end piece to the shaft. The shorter one secured the spring to the bendix body only. Make sure the locking tabs on the keeper washers can be reused (not cracked). These can be hard to find.

I had to replace the bendix bolts tabs, when i bent the one back in place it cracked. Check that pretty close. I assume all of that when it falls off ends up in the oil pan. Tim

After you get the starter off, check the ring gear on the flywheel. You can use a flashlight and look into the hole on the bendix side of the hogs head. Rotate the engine and inspect the teeth on the large ring gear all the way around. There is usually a place or two places on that gear where the teeth are worn. They come from the factory tapered but as the wear out they become flat. It is when the bendix gear is spun toward the ring gear that the gears become locked because the taper is worn off. The only way to fix that is to pull out the engine and transmission and take off the magnets from the flywheel and replace the gear, then put everything back together. You will also need to replace the brass screws which hold the keepers on the ends of the magnets. When you replace the magnets, you should place them in the direction that the poles match. SS NN SS NN etc all the way around. You can find the polarity of the magnets with a compass. The north needle points to the south pole of the magnet and the south needle points to the north pole of the magnet. It will also be a good time to recharge the magnets and if you have an old original magneto coil ring, replace it with a rewound ring. When you replace the magnets on the flywheel check for cracked magnets. And you will need to install the magnets so that the poles are all level, that is, the same distance from the flywheel. And adjust the magneto ring with shims to get the clearance between magnets and coil poles to be between 25 and 40 thousandths inch.

If this is too much work to do, you can wait until the next time you rebuild the engine or transmission. Meantime, before you use the starter, turn the hand crank 1/4 turn. That will line up the better teeth on the flywheel ring with the starter. There are two positions 90 degrees from each other that the engine will stop when you turn off the ignition in neutral. So a 45 degree turn of the crankshaft will line up with a relatively unused part of the starter ring gear.
Norm

If you drop that key way your in trouble. I turn the starter shaft keyway to the top.

Until I replace the bushing I have put the bendix back together, on the bench, with the key safely in place--in the slot where it belongs. It is small for sure but it's secure for now. When I take something apart I try to put the screws/bolts back where they belong until I'm ready to put it back together. Thanks, it's good day when you learn something new.

John, when you get the motor off, with or without the bendix in place, secure the motor so it can't jump around like a fire hose and energize it. If the shaft is bent, you'll see it and that could be why it locks up.

Terry, the first thing I saw after pulling the shaft out was the end of the shaft bushing was pretty well shot. I will put in a new one. Right now I think that was the problem. Thanks,

John
I can direct you to a friend who re-bushes the starter mounting bracket Bendix stop nut running area?

Hey Don there's no need to try and keep those little tab washers, Bob's has them for sixty cents a piece:
http://bobsantiqueautoparts.com/product/t-5025-starter-drive-lock-washer-1919-27 /