Key cylinder removal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Key cylinder removal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 10:51 am:

I have a panel with the switch and ammeter to replace the one currently in my '21 Touring, which has an extra hole in it. I don't have a key for the replacement switch. I'm trying to decide whether to order a key for the "new" switch or to try to switch the cylinders. Anybody removed and replaced a cylinder? How?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 11:08 am:

The only reason I would try to change cylinders is if I had one that didn't work. Otherwise I'd spend a few bucks for a new key.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 11:12 am:

Tommy, It has been said here before that the repos aren't the quality of the originals and there have been complaints. I would look for a used original in the classifieds or on Ebay, even if you have to pay the price of a new repo to buy one. Whether you have a 'driver' or a 'show' car, I think you'll be better pleased.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 11:22 am:

The cylinder arrangements are not all the same.

There are at least three (or more) different types.

Some require removal of the two rivets to get them apart.

The odds of an interchange are not good.

Two of the 3 manufactures that I know are Briggs and Stratton (and that one has 3 pegs to hold the switch together) and Clum (and that one has tabs to hold the switch together).

The tabs often break off when bent out and sometimes the pins break when removing the switch back.

While you can buy a new switch cylinder, with two keys, for about $15 it will not interchange with anything, except the recent repro switch assemblies. It is just a little too big around for a replacement.

Then too the keys have a diamond on them and they will not work in a 55 lock, as the groove is cut slightly off.

The only repro locks made for the last 50 years use a 55 key and that is a good clue on whether your switch assembly is an original, which usually has a broken pot metal cylinder, which is not remanufactured.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 11:39 am:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC0.A0 .H0.Xmodel+T+key.TRS0&_nkw=model+T+key&_sacat=0


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 11:45 am:

I rebuilt mine by drilling out the two rivets. As I mentioned in my last post on this subject, the new rivets need reshaping. James Golden is correct on the different styles. It's easier to find a different switch to work on, or contact Ben Martin who is the expert. I'll give you a plate with no big hole in it, but I'm sure Ben probably has dozens of them, so why bother. I completely rebuilt mine with no problems, but that doesn't mean yours would be the same!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 12:55 pm:

I have the replacement panel with switch and gauge
so I will order a key for it and save my old one for a spare. Problem solved.


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