Whew! I was taking Thermodynamics 2, Dynamics, Mechanics of Materials, and Fluid Mechanics this fall. As much as it pained me, I just did not have the time to fool with my speedster. But! After finals, and some Christmas stuff and honey-do stuff, I've been making sweet progress!
The Ruckstell is complete and ready to install except for some tweaks to the radius rods. The Chicago has been cleaned and painted and guts reassembled, just waiting on some 12-28 screws to show up so I can lock down the big main bearing retainers in front and back.
I have my crossmember support for the Chicago made and painted. I'm using it to also mount my left-hand (outside the body) Ruckstell shifter. This trans is much heavier than the aluminum Warford I took out. I'm excited about the better overdrive along with the 3:1 gears in the Ruckstell. Should really be able to go anywhere from creeping up a trailer to flying down the highway.
Will have to probably recreate one floorboard with a different hole for the Chicago versus the Warford, Chicago sits much lower further forward in comparison.
After that! It'll be on to painting and mounting my friction shocks and panhard bars.
Be sure that you have the upper shaft bearing pre-load just right! That, and the front-to-back positioning of the upper gears is critical with a Chicago. A lot less so with Warford and Muncie transmissions. I mention it, only because it is the Chicago transmission's weak spot. With all those college courses you took? You should be able to figure it out!
Congratulations by the way. For the college work, everything else, and the work on the T! It is looking good.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
You are really going to like your front end set up. Makes a huge difference in handling at higher speeds.
Wayne, for you or anyone else who might know - are there any guidelines or recommendation on getting the upper gears aligned correctly?
My thought was to center, front to back, the input shaft and gear over the gear below it so that it had maximum tooth contact. If anything I'd have it a WEE bit towards the rear so that there's clearance between that lower gear and the direct/under gear when its shifted into direct.
If there's any suggestions I'm all ears. And while it's on the floor is the time to tell me! Haha
Seth, looks real good. "zoom zoom zoom. wheeee". Just make sure you can "STOP" If there is a course on magnetos, you may want to take it also. I will probably be bothering you a lot when I get to the magneto of my speedster project. have fun and be safe .... Donnie Brown ...
Seth, how much faster do you want to got? The last time you blew by me, all I heard was an airplane type sound and a yellow streak.
All kidding aside, congrats on your project. It will be an honor to be passed by you even faster in the future!
You might want to rethink the 3:1 rear end ratio with the overdrive in the Chicago. The overdrive with standard gears is almost more that you need even with a VERY hot motor.
Calculate your engine RPM in overdrive with the 3:1 gears and that should confirm for you what I'm talking about.
Yes the Chicago overdrive is the perfect ratio, but not with 3:1 gears.
Lol too late to rethink anything, it's all installed and put together. I'll at least try it first. Clayton Paddison has a Chicago and Ruckstell with 3:1s so I think I'll be happy with it. At most I might swap to a 12 tooth pinion for 3.25:1 instead. I think between the Chicago and Ruckstell and my engine's fairly wide power band I should be able to find a sweet spot whether in riding by myself or chugging along with other T's.
Tom, I want to be able to go so fast that you aren't even sure you saw something go by! Haha, I gotta keep up in the speedster arms race with the likes of Clayton or anyone else I might meet. I'm gonna try a more radical cam next and eventually two U&J carbs.
As for calculating RPMs:
65 mph x 5,280 ft / 60 min / 2.5 ft (wheel dia 30") / 3.1416 x 3:1 gears / 1.5 Chicago gears = 1,457 RPM
1,457 RPM seems right in the wheelhouse for cruising speed. Got plenty of room if I need to race, but can do 65 all day without the engine screaming.
What are you planning on doing for brakes?
Brakes shmakes! No need for the "sissy" pedal.
HA! Just kidding. But seriously, I don't use the brakes much. I know every time on the forum when someone starts talking about speed parts there's usually one or a dozen admonishments to not neglect the stopping part of the equation.
First: I don't drive fast very often. I ride in my speedster with other T's going normal T speed more than I ride by myself. Second, on the occasion I get up over 40 mph, I only do it on roads and in traffic conditions where it's safe to do so. I do 90% of my slowing down with the throttle. I basically attempt to drive as if I have no brakes at all.
Granted, that doesn't cover every situation. Sometimes you need to be able to stop quickly. In those cases I have lined brake shoes on the hand brake lever, and properly adjusted AC brakes. No, I won't stop as fast as a modern car. Nor will I stop as fast as if I had period correct front brakes, or as fast as as if I had disc brakes. But, she stops pretty quick, combined with being careful, I've been more than ok so far. Besides the ACs my car is light and I have nice wide balloon tires.
The only thing that gives me trouble, and probably everyone else too: is when a modern car goes around me, moves into my lane and then either stops at light that would have gone through while yellow, or they slow down hard and turn. But nobody likes that.
Seth, I also just finished up a ruckstell for my 26 coupe. Don't forget to install your radius rods before you button up your drive shaft to the rear end. Mine are impossible to install after the drive shaft is installed. Don't ask me how I know. See you on the hills. Bob
Bob, I can see your problem if your coupe uses the later type 26 radius rods with the shoulder instead of the lock nut at the drive shaft ball mount. On the earlier style rods backing off the lock nut all the way should provide enough freedom to get the rods on.
Actually, the rods I have are too short. They were cut for a Warford which is 1 inch longer and thus has a 1 inch shorter driveshaft and torque tube. I have some bolts that I'm going to weld onto the end of the radius rods to lengthen them the necessary inch I need. Just hadn't gotten to that part yet.
I'm with wife seeing her family for Christmas so all T things are on pause until we get home. Just checking and posting on forum more now.
I have a Hot flathead (Z-head with twin 81's) with a Chicago and Ruckstell in my car with 3:1s...and I think all the combinations are just about right. In Low/Low...I can smoke 'em for half a block. in Direct I can cruise nicely at nearly 60, and If I'm on the intestate...75+ is no issue.