What are the best Push Rods, The 2 wrenches, or the 3 wrenches to adjust ??? I am a little afraid that the 2 wrench type are turning by them self overtime
Thanks for your answer
I've used the type with the nut numerous times and have not had any problems. The only problem is getting them adjusted the first time. The only difference I've found with the no-nut adjustables is the cost. For a few dollars less, I can use 3 wrenches. I have used the no-nut type on my early V-8s and they work OK. I believe the thread on the bolt and the one in the push rod are like one-thread-off as in 28 threads on the bolt and 29 threads on the push rod to give it an interference fit.
You don't use three wrenches, set the locking pair to jam and make your adjustment - while the engine is running. It takes practice to acquire the skill.
I like the non adjustable tappets better. Easy to adjust by grinding them to length and then you are done. No worries about the adjusters snapping off or backing off.
See the December 1 post here:
I've dealt with adjustable tappets only in Packards. Don't think I'd want them in my T. (Not original ; - ).
What type equipment is necessary to grind original style lifters? I've done two T engines but used adjustable lifters in both. One has the two wrench style and I'm not sure, but I think I used the three wrench style on the fist one.
Royce has a cool old shop-type valve grinder setup . . . I don't think he meant to grind the lifter, usually you'd grind the valve stem to obtain the proper clearance. Of course you could grind the lifter if the engine were entirely dis-assembled.
Should have added, if the lifter faces are "cupped" with wear, they will have to be re-faced, otherwise you can't accurately measure the gap.