The baffle in my 1923 Touring gas tank is no longer attached to the inside of the gas tank. It flops around inside the tank when I move the tank around. I will not solder or weld it given the risk of fire.
I found a brief reference in another thread or two about using rare earth strong magnets to reattached/rescure it to the proper position, but I didn't see any real explanation for how to do it with the magnets.
Any thoughts on how to secure it with magnets?
I used J B Weld on my gas tank to secure the baffle, and its worked fine for about 3 or 4 years now. I used a long narrow stick to get the J B Weld in.
I guess if it were mine, and if I could get the baffle located where I want it, I would consider drilling holes through the tank and into the baffle flanges. Then, secure the baffle with sheet metal screws. You can solder over the screw heads without flame if you use a good old fashioned soldering iron, either the style you heat on a stove or the electric ones. That should seal them up well enough.
The tank in my 1915 was giving me fits with dirt and trash. When I took it out to clean it I found that a baffle was clunking around loose inside. It happened that I was about to be passing through Iowa, so I stopped at Birdhaven and picked up a new one. I'm very glad I did.
I must admit one of the ones in my TT is laying on the bottom. Has been since before I bought it, in.....what was it? 2007?. Only problem it has caused so far is giving a false fuel level reading when it migrates over to where the dipstick hits it rather than the tank bottom.
Filling the tank with concrete will stabilize those baffles. Side effects
may include ....
Sounds like those evening news ads for medical miracles where the
cure is worse than the affliction !
That's the bestest advice of all!
I also have a clean '23 oval tank with loose baffles. It's free to anyone willing to pay the freight.
Eric I used a rare earth magnet from a speaker I think to secure a loose baffle. Of course it has to fit through the fuel filler hole. I suppose you could use more than one but the one I used was good enough. Dropped it in & moved it into place with a long screw driver then slid the baffle over it. Problem solved cheaply.
Forget the screw and solder, just drill a hole, get the baffle over it, and solder it with a soldering iron. Maybe 2 or three holes if you feel lucky.
Best advise was a new tank....
Forget the magnets.
Buy a new tank. You will never regret it.
If it is splash out the cap breathe hole that concerns you,I made a thing out of coarse copper or brass screen like a Model A fuel strainer.Wedged it in between the bottom of the filler hole and the bottom of the tank.If that T is still around somewhere,in one piece,I would bet it is still there.
I'm with Ed. I'm all about new tanks. Believe me!
You can buy a new tank.
If you want to use the original tank, do you have access to dry ice, an inert gas, you can even pipe car exhaust into the tank, to remove the oxygen, then weld it. No oxygen, no boom!
Jeez guys Eric never said any thing about tank/dirt problems! Simple solution for a fairly common problem is the magnet fix I posted above. Can't understand why so many of you are hot to spend his hard earned (I assume) money. He doesn't need a tank and he surely doesn't need to drill holes in the one he's got. I've done it and I know for a fact it works. Takes all of 10 minutes to do and requires only an old speaker magnet. You don't even need to drain the tank for cryin' out loud.
Charlie is correct. The magnets are a 'fix", but not a repair. Since you have decided that you will not weld or solder it, your options are to live with a "fix" or replace the tank. I'd replace the tank.
Is a loose baffle in the tank dangerous, can it cause any harm? Just like to know since I have a loose baffle in my '22 tank and it doesn't bother me.
I've had a loose baffle in my '15's gas tank for the last 20 years. It rattles when the tank is nearly empty. Kind of an early warning feature that tells me I need gas. It has not been on my priority list of things to do.
The one in my TT may rattle. I don't know. There are so many other noises going on, there's no way to tell.
For us newbies, how were the baffles held in place originally? Soldered? Spot welded? Riveted?
The surfaces inside the tank, including the baffle flanges, are very difficult to get clean enough for solder to hold. If the joint you suggest fails, you have an instant leak. Two or three spots of solder would not nearly be enough to secure the baffle. Having a screw in place ensures a good seal no matter what, and holds the baffle by a solid mechanical attachment.
My thoughts on tank replacement is only that if it's old enough to have the baffles come apart, then just maybe it's in bad enough condition to warrant a new one. However, I do admit this may not always be the case.
I suspect the one in my TT is a replacement tank. The galvanizing looks way too good for it to be 90 something years old. I think the reason the baffle is laying on the bottom of the tank is poor workmanship.
I am not totally opposed to a new tank and the recommendations for a new one are pretty compelling, but I thought it was worth exploring the viability of keeping an old tank that came with my new (old) Touring. The tank appears to be mostly clean (and no worse that what I see in my other cars), and the exterior is in good shape.
The only issue I see is the baffle that broke loose. I'm half inclined to take a magnet and let the magnet secure the loose baffle to the bottom or top or side wall so it is not capable of sloshing around and creating all manner of noise. It won't serve its purpose as a baffle, but it also won't be a noise maker.
There can no harm done in trying your magnet approach. Give it a shot.