My friend Ken sent me this web site:
Shell X-100 Classic Motor Oils
Reintroduced by Wayne Carini in North America to meet the specific needs of Classic and Collector car engines.
Has anyone tried this motor oil and what was your finding?
Kinda expensive for my blood
Are you kidding me? Well, at least it comes in a swell can.
It's all too thick for a Model T. Ford recommended a oil that is equivalent to today's SAE 20. You can still get SAE 20 if you special order it, but most of us find that 5W-30 works well in typical temperatures from 30* F to 110* F.
If you lived in Dubai or Saudia Arabia then maybe a straight 30 weight would be OK, but for the rest of us it is not going to be very good, particularly if you hand crank to start. No way I would ever use a non detergent oil in anything I cared about, not even my lawn mower.
NEWS FLASH !!!!
Just found this deal on the web:
Empty Collector Display Can - Shell X-100 Motor Oil 20W-50 (5 US Quart) $29.99
I could buy that empty can, fill it with Rotella and who would know.
Royce, my understanding is that "detergent automotive oil" has some kind of wax that sticks to the dirt in your engine and as it goes through the oil filter, because of the wax it sticks to the element. If you do not use/run an oil filter in your car, you don't need a detergent oil". I may be wrong, but that's my understanding.
Calling all suckers...
VAG (Volkswagen AktienGesellshaft) recommended detergent oil for their air cooled Beetles, which did not have oil filters.
That is ridiculous.
Shell oil contains the secret ingredient GL-70. It gets your Babbitt bearings whiter than white.
Roar, I did not know that. I was a 1958 Saab 93 owner back in the very early sixties, never owned a VW.
Steve, thanks for sharing, I didn't know that either ("it's a poor day when you don't learn something new").
Royce, what is ridiculous? Back in the fifties, when detergent oil first came out, that is what I was told (and I never read it on the internet, so it may not be true, as you say).
Detergent oil keeps contaminants and by products of combustion in suspension where they may be drained out during oil change. Non-detergent oil allows those same contaminates to attach themselves inside the engine.
Look at the insides of an engine that has been rebuilt and run detergent oil with changes on a regular basis and it will be clean as a whistle.
There is no benefit to running non-detergent oil. The old argument that these suspended particles will cause faster wear would only be true if one didn't change oil when it became dirty. Most T guys change it at least once a year and beyond that, more based on miles.
The regular occurrence of this topic never ceases to amaze me.
It's quite obvious that there will never be a consensus.
Folks in the trailer park near me would howl and wail if you briefly set a car battery on concrete, claiming that it would ruin the battery and cause the concrete to detonate spontaneously.
There are lots of old wives tales out there.
Gary, non detergent oil leaves a coating of sludge on all surfaces even when changed frequently. This is why all motor companies started recommending detergent oil in the mid 1950's, when many cars still did not have oil filters.
Okay, I stand corrected, I never knew that you did not need to use a oil filter with detergent engine oils. As I said "it's a poor day,......".
I also read (on their web page) that Shell ROTELLA® T1 is an easy-flow monograde providing quality lubrication and consistent performance with well-proven performance additives to fight engine corrosion and wear.
I like and have been using (I am NOT recommending the use of this product to anyone who does not or want to use it) Shell Rotella oil since my days when I was an OTR truck driver.
>NEWS FLASH !!!! Just found this deal on the web: Empty Collector Display Can - Shell X-100 Motor Oil 20W-50 (5 US Quart) $29.99<
That's more amazing to me than the price of the oil; the old Gulf Saphire 2 gal cans sell on ebay for $20 +/- now, and I used to buy them full of oil in 1970 at the Globe department store in So. Portland, ME for $1.80!!!
Royce, you and I are in agreement. I made two separate statements concerning both types oil.
"Non-detergent oil allows those same contaminates to attach themselves inside the engine." Same as you have stated.
"Look at the insides of an engine that has been rebuilt and run detergent oil with changes on a regular basis and it will be clean as a whistle." Agrees with what you stated as the detergent oil doesn't attach as sludge.
Steve, is the information in your link presented as factual?
What Steve said:
Well, up to the 1930's -
I use Shell Rotella in many of the engines i have and will continue the same. There is a reason some truck engines will make 500,000 to 1,000 000 miles before overhaul and it's because of using quality oil. My question is do farmers,construction people,and truckers save money on oil by going to wall-mart and saving .5 cents a qt or the by the barrel? When many large diesel engines might cost $30,000 for a rebuild do you save money by buying the best quality oil you can find or the cheapiest?? Can i help you? Yes,i need 44 qts of the cheapiest oil you can find! sae-30 ?? There are still a few of the old Two Stroke Detroits running but they are getting hard to find! Bud in Wheeler,Mi. Ps,How much is a total rebuild for a model T engine?? Bud.
It's worth reading the data sheet for this oil if you're considering it. They have SAE30 and 20W-50 grades.
The SAE30 is here:
Has ZDDP for those who want it, but is described as Low Detergent/Dispersant. Instead of keeping contaminants suspended in the oil to be drained away, it "allows suspended matter to drop harmlessly into the sump". I will not share an opinion about the validity of that statement.
My opinion, Tim.
How do you determine "quality oil"? Price? Advertising?
What does the API mark on the container mean?
..."allows suspended matter to drop harmlessly into the sump" where the Model T splash system throws it all over the inside of the engine and transmission.
I'm with Bud on this. That API spec to me is no different that a Mil spec. All it means is that product meets the minimum requirement for that spec period. I want more that minimum. Years of positive experience with a product are reason enough to me to stay with it and not look to save a nickel on brand X.
dropped harmlessly into the sump!
Sheesh, tell that to the poor 302 in the 87 Lincoln setting behind the shop.A bunch of carbon deposites from under the intake fell into the engine oil pan thru drain holes. Engine ran fine until the screen stopped up on the oil pump.Now it is ticky ticky ticky!.
You could put some Johnson and Johnson baby oil in your T and it would be as clean and good as the oil they had back then.
Lots of comments having nothing to do with the original poster's question.
Dan's correct, all I wanted to know is if anybody had tried it and what did they think about it.
Poor old Wayne, probably needs the money that's why he 's selling it.
A friend told me that his supplier could not get Rotella anymore and they were switching to Shell X-100.
Gotta be better than shell fire and ice. Made a lot of money rebuilding engines that was gummed up and dirty with that stuff.
At $8 a quart I can't imagine many folks with Model T's would buy any. More of a Lamborghini / Isotta Fraschini price range wouldn't you say?
"Shell ROTELLA® T1 is an easy-flow monograde providing quality
lubrication ..... "
Few people do enough to keep their quality lubricated.
Shell Rotella at my local Tractor supply is $3.50 a quart. Buy in bulk it's even cheaper. I like it and use it. In tractors, backhoes, road graders, lawn mowers, and Model T's.
When I bought my '17 Touring the previous owner said he didn't touch the engine in the 40+ years he owned it. He said he used SAE 30 non-detergent oil in it. I figured I would keep on using that after all this time. After a couple years I dropped the pan and was quite surprised how clean the engine was inside! Even for the last 8 years the previous owner had let the car just sit as he was getting old. I also, have no problem hand cranking the engine with the SAE 30 oil. So, as someone stated earlier there are a lot of old wives tales out there! And to clear something else, non-detergent oil allows particles to fall to the bottom of the engine while detergent holds the particles in suspension to be collected in the oil filter.
The term 'classic motor oil' can mean as original, type and etc.
Its kind of an over reach to use the term in my opinion.
To each his own but the Wal-Mart, Dollar Store or Auto-Zone store brand oil is better than any oil Ford ever used in his Model T's and A's and most classic cars.
Most any of todays motor oil is.
If you want to pay for oil in a can that says classic motor oil that's your business.
Have run 30 wt. non-detergent in everything I've had over the last 40 years. I change it annually. Never an issue.