Anyone have a chassis without a body on that will take a pic or two of the engine pan arm wood blocks in place? I would like to see what they are supposed to look like . How about a pic or two of a steering bracket wood block , too? Thanks.
Here's the bracket before the block is installed.
Just slide the block in and put the bolt through it.
Sorry, no pictures of the pan arm blocks.
A chunk cut off a standard scrap of 2X4 works almost perfectly. For both the steering bracket and for the pan arms. The blocks should not fill the frame. Bolt heads, sometimes tail lamp wires, and fuel lines, need some space. Some original blocks had notches or corners cut out of them. I don't have any handy to post pictures of.
The blocks should fill the space between the hanger and side of the frame but not the space top to bottom.
Steering Bracket Wood
Crankcase Arm Blocks
Oak is best....
Are these the same for a TT ?
Thanks, I have already bought new blocks from Lang's for the steering and pan mounts, as well as the ones for my hood shelves. I wanted to make sure that I was installing them correctly.
I welded a nut on the inside of the starter side of the pan on all my T's, sure makes it easier to attach the horizontal bolt.
This is an original steering block.
P.S. some shrinkage may have occurred.
Jim E ; That is a very good idea about the nut. I did it straightaway !!!!
There is no slot for a cotter pin in that nut. If you use a lock washer, you might be tightening too tight. It is very easy to install the nut if you use a box wrench with masking tape to make the hole snug. Then put the nut into the wrench and hold in front of the hole. Turn the bolt in from the outside and when you get the hole in the bolt up and castle nut lined up, you put the cotter pin in. Then turn the bolt to one side and bend the cotter pin. The bolt should be just tight enough to keep the wood block in place without putting a strain on the steel.
We never use side bolts or blocks, does more harm then good.
If the blocks and bolts are not installed the frame is much more prone to sagging in my experience. That being said, it is important to just barely "snug" the side bolt of the pan arm. This is one place where a cotter pin is very important and a lock washer is a poor idea. This bolt should NOT be very tight at all in my experience but is essential to prevent frame sagging. Any original car I have found missing these will have a sagged frame. If they are there then the frame will likely be straight