I want to replace the crankshaft rope seal with a modern neoprene seal, but I cannot find the number of the neoprene seal. Does anyone have this number? This seal replaces the rope seal that is fitted into the timing cover and crankcase.
Herm calls out the number in this thread:
I've never used the modern seal. It looks like a great idea except that if you ever needed to remove the camshaft for any reason you would have to pull the motor. The one piece seal would be destroyed if you tried to remove the timing cover without removing the engine pan first.
So long as that doesn't bother you it looks superior to the other seal types, provided your crankshaft is not worn, which is common.
For those pesky worn crankshafts:
Russ ; I use the ropeseal, and as an extra safety I use an oil seal which I glue to the engine block and oilpan .
Thank you, the seals are ordered. Russ Furstnow
I like that Toon!
It IS possible to remove the front cover plate when using a modern oil seal, I have just done it. No big deal, another rumor squashed.....
If the seal area of your crankshaft is not in first class condition, a "modern " neoprene seal will not last well. A Teflon rope type seal is more tolerant of shaft imperfections. If the shaft surface is poor then a repair using a "Speedi Sleeve" is worth considering. With this all styles of seals will work much better. Personally I still just used the "rope type " but in Teflon on all my T engines including my high performance 5 main engines. I do use a modern lip type seal at the timer/cam, but only after I have inspected and polished the cam nut surface. This is another area where a Speedi Sleeve could be considered. Lip type seals need good smooth defect free surfaces to perform well
Russ, Glad your going to end the drips on your crank. The famous Montana racer Garrett Green originally came up with this idea and I promoted it here several times.
Here's one link with some seal part numbers you can get at the local store.
I like to use one with a larger and wider flange and like a full daisy flower with all its pedals. Many engines blocks have a step between the front plate and the lower block so you need to do a little body and fender work shaping the seal to fit. Clean all the surface of oil apply a good amount of Ultra Black let it sit overnight and wah la no more leaking crank.
Most crankshafts are not damaged or worn right where this seal fits and even thought you are installing it "backwards" the modern seals do a fine job with retaining the little oil that does get past the rope.
I do know guys that install this seal inside in place of the rope but I find it a little harder to get the cover off then.
Yoon Thanks for the nice pictures!!
I have also removed and replaced the front cover on more than one car with a modern crank seal without a problem.
Russ, My rebuilt engine (by other) was throwing oil from the front cover. After reading suggestions on the form, I took a narrow modern seal and cut the outer rim off using a bench sander. With the pulley off of course, slid the seal on, flange first, with some silicone on the face and walla, no more oil leak. The seal that I used had a much larger OD than the one that Anthonie used.
Thanks to everyone for the information!! Russ Furstnow