HELLO,
MY NAME IS TOM.I'M NEW AT BEING A MODELT OWNER.MY FIRST PROBLEM IS AN AMMETER THAT SHOWS 7 AMP WHETHER THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR NOT.SHOULD I REPLACE THE AMMETER? ALSO THE WATER PUMP LEAKS.
IT ALSO LEAKS GREASE.IS THERE A CURE? IS THIS
PUMP NECCESARY TO PREVENT OVER HEATING IN THE EVENT I SHOULD DECIDE TO REMOVE IT? AND HOW DO YOU
CHECK THE GENARATOR TO FIND IF IT IS CHARGING.
THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!!!!!!!!!
TOM

Tom:

it sounds like your ammeter needle is bent. That is somewhat common. It also sounds like either your generator is not working or the cut out is not working. Start your motor and see if the connection of the left side of the generator (thats the pole coming out of the generator) is hot. If it is then you probably have a bad cut out. If there is no juice coming up out the generator you will have to have it rebuilt. If the pole coming out of the generator is hot but nothing is coming out the other end of the cutout then its your cut out.

As to water pumps, most of then do more harm than good. Most of them have such narrow passeges that they impede cooling rather than help. If you need a water pump to cool your motor then something is wrong with you radiator. There are two very cheap items that you can put on your T. One is new tires, tubes and flaps and the other is a good radiator. If you have good tanks and you are getting hot, have your radiator shop put a new core in it.

Tom:

Since you are new to Model Ts you should join your local Model T Club. Check the home page of the MTFCA and they have a list of clubs. Someone in your club will have the correct meters to check your electrical system. If you can't find the list of clubs let me know where you live and I will give you the closest club.

Dave Huson

Hi Tom-
On the first part, it does sound like your meter is broken - if the needle were merely bent (which it might be, too) it would fluctuate when your motor runs or the lights are on, etc. If it's an old style (large-no filler plate) ammeter, I'd try to fix it (or find someone who can) before relplacing it, as they're not easy to come across. The generator - you can take it to a generator/alternator shop (not a parts place but one that does rebuilds) and have them check it (I had one check mine, and got a free brush replacement out of the deal)... I know there's also a way to unhook and ground it and then check it yourself, but I honestly don't know how. I'm sure someone else does, tho...

On the second part - the T didn't come stock with a waterpump, so you could take it off, replace it with the elbow which came with the car, and run it that way. Unless you have high-performance stuff on your car (like High dome pistons, a low or shaved head, an overhead valve setup, zenith or winfield carburetor, etc.), a really bad radiator (clogged, unattached fins, etc.) or drive in a situation where your car is gonna get hot hot hot (like deserts or hills) you could probably do better without a pump. Also, some of the old pumps, are worse than not having them - for example, the one on my car had a water inlet that was 1/2" - way small. I was able to open it up, but until then it did nothing *but* boil. The leaks - the packing around the shaft is probably gone, and needs to be renewed. The grease is, well, how do I put this - don't use so much grease!

The only thing I have been able to find that will keep the pump on my '14 from leaking is a grease by LUBRIPLATE #115.