Transmission brake drum bushing

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum (old): Transmission brake drum bushing
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Green, Dexter, MI (Dan) on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 09:06 pm:

I am rebuilding the transmission on my 1927. Had to replace the brake drum. Ordered a new transmission brake drum from Lang’s ($260). Much to my surprise it arrived without bushings. Talked to Lang’s and they suggested pressing out the old bushings from the original drum (they fit the shaft just fine) and putting them in the new drum. The MTFCA transmission guide (p20) says "the bushing may be removed by screwing a 3/4 pipe tap into the bushing…". It does not sound like they will be useable after doing this.
Guess I need put in new bushings. Lang’s said the replacement drum bushings are 3320c (listed as driven gear sleeve bushings?- 2 required) and that I also require 3-3320D (driven gear sleeve washers?). Where do they go and how does one install the bushings and washers? Help!
Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Houston - Broken Arrow, OK (Fredhouston) on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 10:02 pm:

Dan you should have the three thrust washers when you disassemble your tranny. Usually they are OK. If not order 3 new ones. They go between the brake drum and the inner hub for the clutch plates. These will be shown in drawings in the transmission guide.

Although not impossible to preserve your old bushings, a better approach would be to use the new bushings in your case. They must be reamed or honed concentric with the outer brake drum shaft surface to fit the main shaft.

Fred


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Houston - Broken Arrow, OK (Fredhouston) on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 10:05 pm:

Oops, forgot to tell you the bushings are pressed in place. Be very careful to press the bushing in the end of the brake drum shaft about 3/8 of an inch down into the shaft(else it will rub on the radias of the main shaft.

Fred


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Green, Dexter, MI (Dan) on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 09:42 am:

I could not find a diagram showing where the washers go anywhere. I did find a picture in The Model t Ford Owner (p 70) that shows the washers. Are they shown, but unlabelled, in the sectional view of the transmission on p 57 of The Model t Ford Owner?
Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Houston - Broken Arrow, OK (Fredhouston) on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 11:11 am:

Dan,
Look on page 26 of the transmission guide for a diagram and a complete explanation.

Fred


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 08:02 pm:

Daniel:

If you turn out something with a circle that just fits your old brake drum, you can press them out that way. I have done many that way because I like to use the original bushings when they are still good. I believe that they may be much better brass. Ford factory manuals said that you could have up to .005 clearance. I don't go quite that high but find many that are in the .002 range. Don't forget your soft plug in the clutch disk or you will have all your motor oil back in the rear end.
Also when installing your washers between the clutch drum and the brake drum be sure that three are not too many. Once in a great while I find that I can only install two. I like to use a mirror to make sure that the clutch drum is lined up with the lock screw hole.After you get the three washers and the clutch disk installed make sure that the brake drum can turn freely. If not then you have to remove one of the washers. If your motor is going to set around for a year or so while you work on the rest of the car, what ever you do don't use any grease with lithium. After a year it can lock up your trani like cement. Use regular motor oil or other grease without lithium. This happened to me many years ago on a transmission in one of my own Ts. I recently had a friend bring me a ruckstell that he had for ten years Some one before my friend had the ruckstell had put new roller bearings in the ends and packed them with
lithium. Needless to say there was no way you get the bearings to turn. I soaked them over night in my parts cleaner and the next day they were as hard as ever. I tried WD-40 and a couple of other things to free them up with no luck. The fellow that owned ruckstell suggested we try laquor thinner and after soaking and turning and more soaking and more turning they freeded up enough that we could go ahead and pack them with non lithium grease. Even though they were new bearings I was still no tottaly satisfied at how much they freed up.
Good luck with your trani. By the way the MTFCA has an excellant trani manual by Fred Houston.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Green, Dexter, MI (Dan) on Friday, December 06, 2002 - 03:23 pm:

Dave,
Thanks. I usually select a socket of the right size and use it to press out the bushings. I assume that this will work here if I use a socket and extender. As the socket pushes out the first bushing, it will press out the second bushing.
Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith (Lrysmith) on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 11:18 am:

Daniel:
All of the information so far is correct. The three driven gear sleeve washers are clearly shown on pg 74 of the Ford Service book, fig. 182. As for the brake drum, you may have noticed it only had one bushing in it. That is because in late '25 or early '26 Ford decieded to leave the bushing out next to the where the washers are. I would use two bushings in the brake drum as the earlier models did.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Hylen (Speedwing) on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 12:50 pm:

So, that's why there was only one bushing in the brake drum of the transmission, I took apart the other day. I thought someone had been very sloppy on the rebuild.
On transmission drums; last week I dissassembled eight transmissions. All but four of the twenty-four drums, looked pretty good after I cleaned them in the parts washer. On advice of another club member, I ran them all through my bead blaster. Six of eight, reverse drums turned out to be cracked. Just, couldn't see the cracks until the metal was really clean. Makes me wonder, how many cars are out there running around with cracked drums and don't know it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 01:46 pm:

Eric:

That is a very good point. A lot of guys are blaiming Kevlar for broken drums but somewhere around 50% of the tranis that I pull apart have at least one broken drum and these are drums that have NEVER SEEN KEVLAR!!!!!!!!!!!. I am not saying that Kevlar never cracks a drum but I am saying that most drums were cracked long ago and the cracks were missed. Sandblasting is real good. You can also clean them real good on you wire wheel buffer and then soak them in your parts cleaner again let them get good and dry and see if any black solvent from the parts washer bleeds out indicating a crack. I find more cracks in the webbing than I do on the running surface. That is why I shudder ever time some one tells me they balance their drums by drilling the webbing. Also I am very much against turning the drums to get rid of the rivet grooves. The drums are too thim to begin with and then to take more material off by turning the drums on a lathe only weakens them more. a Grove in the drum does not hurt anything and does not wear out your band material one bit. If the goves are too bad throw the drum away and get another. If the drums have not been run for a number years polish them on your lathe, with about 180 grit emery cloth and then end up with about a 200 grit sandpaper.

http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/montana500/


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Underwood (Derrick) on Thursday, March 24, 2005 - 11:40 pm:

Dave, It's Derrick I have a question on the clutch drums, how do you get them apart? do you press them apart? and how is that done, with what type of fixture? I DO NOT WANT TO DAMAGE THEM THANKS.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Swan (Kswan) on Friday, March 25, 2005 - 08:12 am:

Derrick, use a bearing splitter and an arbor press. Place a sockett just smaller than the inside diameter of the driven shaft and press them apart. Ken Swan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Friday, March 25, 2005 - 04:12 pm:

Derrick:

Your clutch drum has two holes in either side.

puller 1puller 1

The original tool for pulling the clutch drum had two bolts in the bottom of each leg that screwed into the hole.

puller 2puller 2

Once you get the two bolts lined up with the holes you screw them in all the way.

puller 3puller 3

In this picture you can see the end of the bolt sticking through the drum.

puller 4puller 4

These pullers are not hard to find at the swap meets and auctions. They are often on ebay. If you are in a club in would be surprised if some one in the club does not have one.

Also Langs is selling a puller that does the same thing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Swan (Kswan) on Saturday, March 26, 2005 - 11:32 am:

Derrick, my recommendations were to be used after you have removed the clutch discs as Fred has so correctly described. Ken Swan


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