Every one has been so helpfull I an asking another dumb question. My 23 is running great and I have it starting easy after about three months minor work and adjustments in my drive way. But, it dies if I try to clime hills, even small ones. I think it is the driver more than anything. After first of year I will take off the carburetor and clean and fix if needed. Any thing other that I need to do to gain the full 23 HP?
Nicholas:
There are books written about making Ts run better. It sounds like you have fuel starvation. It is common for a Model T to start and run fine on the flats and then not run good in the Mountains. We see this all the time on the big tours in Colorado. Some of the things you can do to make sure that you have Plenty of fuel are:
1. remove your old sediment bowl and go down to NAPA and buy a new one. If you don't want to buy a new one at least clean the old one out. To clean out the old one you must clean the screen as they are all dirty and most don't let enough gas through when you are on a hill and need more gas.
2. The original gas lines were 1/4".Take the old 1/4" gas line off and replace it with 5/16" line. Again the old line are full of dirt. varnish and who knows what else. Again there is enough gas to start and drive on the level when you don't need as much gas, but not enough for the hills.
If you want to stay with 1/4" line at least get a new line.
3. An in line shut of valve should be installed 1 11/16" from the elbo going into the carb.
4. Clean you carburetor from one end to the other. If your gas is like ours in Colorado its full of corn juice which leave a varnish every where. Install new needles, clean the venturi tube, drill out the three brass plugs in the slow speed passage with a NEW 1/8 bit. Stick your WD-40 red extension into the end of the hole and see if the WD-40 goes all the way through to the venturi tube, then replug with sharpened brass welding rod. Use a pipe cleaner to clean the venturi tube.
Montana 500 web site http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/montana500/
When I had this exact problem, it was the ignition system. Easy to start and you could rev the engine as high as you liked, but would just stall on a hill.
I found the cause to be: 1) loose commutator connections on the coil box, 2) spark plugs incorrectly gapped, 3) ignition coils to be in a rather poor state.
Will try both ideas in next few days, thanks
Fred Houston, you mention that a shut off valve must be 1 11/16" from the elbow of the carburetor, what is the significance of that precise dimension? Why not 1 13/16"? Or 1 3/4". I have had an elbow type shut off valve screwed right into the carburetor for years and it works like a charm. It is the type that when the lever is pointed toward the carb it is off and when it is pointed towd the incoming line it is on. The conection from the gas tank fits right onto the supply side opening of the valve. I suppose what I am asking why is it important where the shut off valve is as long as one can get to it with ease?
Next question is I understand that there is someone in your area that respokes wooden wheels, do you have his name and address? Thanks, Ken Swan
My apologies, I directed a question to Fred Houston when I ment to direct it to Dave Huson. My old eyes are playing tricks on my feeble brain. Ken Swan
Ken:
The shut off should NOT be srewed into the carb because if you want to take the carb off for any maintnance you still must climb under the car to shut of the gas. Just make sure that the shut off is far enough forward so the handle clears the fire wall bracket and is far enough back of the carb so it is easier to attach compression fittings and one elbo.
William Weishaupl is doing all the wheels that I know of in Colorado. His address is 1600 Ulster Street, Denver Colorado 80220, Phone number 303-355-1167. If for some reason the phone number does not work let me know and I will see if I can come up with something else.
I hope it helps.
http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/montana500
Dave
Nick
Here is my thought on your problem. Is the gas tank under the seat in the '23? That design, I understand, had a lot of trouble going up hills because the carb is gravity fed.
Nick:
All Ts (except some 26/27) have the gas tank under the seat. Unless you are down to your last gallon of gas climbing a hill or have a 1915 centerdoor it will not matter. I did know a guy that worked in a hospital that took some plastic hose hooked it to his gas tank in the back seat and hooked a blood pressure bulb to the other end and bumped pressure to the tank from the front seat. He said it worked.
Dave
Dave
Thanks for your input. I learn something new everyday. (Now if I can only remember it.) I thought all the 1926-1927 tanks mounted under the cowl except for the Fordor Sedans in which it remained under the front seat. Some trucks in '26 & 27, I understand,have the oval tank under the seat. My '26 truck is under the cowl. I'd be happy if I could get keep either one running!
Merry Christmas
FreddieO
I am going to add a 5/16 gas line and have coils worked on, also will pull the carb and clean. I noticed that aroung the back side of carb and about 2/3 inches up the intake manafold there appears to be whitesh water after I run engine a while, what is that all about.
Nick,
As the gasoline vaporizes quickly in the intake maniford, it can actually form moisture and frost on the outside.
Mike
Nicholas, if the '23 is a touring car the tank will be under the seat. The fact that you are climbing a hill makes no difference if the fuel and carburetion are in good settings. I have climbed some 18* and 20* grades and I have a '22 with the gas tank under the seat. It will cut out if your gas tank falls below a gallon or so on extremely steep hills.
There are many things that will contribute to cutting out including silly things like the coil box lid sliding onto the coils going up hill or the coils falling away from the contacts by gravitational pull. These things seem trivial but I promise you they are not. Another example is the float setting is too low thus letting the carburetor starve, etc, etc, etc.
There are two things that are absolute facts with Model Ts and their owners: 1) Model Ts will break down as will any car, and ; 2) Model T owners can't spell worth a hoot.
There are many ways to make one run perfectly good and many ways to treat problems. Case in point. I don't disagree with Dave Huson's good idea of having a larger gas line, flared ends on the lines and the cut off not being attached to the carburetor. He is successful with that method and it obviously works well for him. I on the other hand have the old original line on the car that was put on at the factory 80 years ago, I use the felt packing, and my cut off comes out of the carburetor. I just simply crawl under the car and shut off the gas under the tank and have a good look around while I'm under there. Sometimes you see things you don't necessarly want to see, but if caught in time, one can prevent a lot of other troubles. The fact is I rarely take my carburetor off (and I drive many thousands of miles a year).
My words of wisdom, for whatever they are worth, is to keep driving the car. It is the only way you will be able to learn what your car can and can not do. You will get smarter and better while the car will start to perform better. Good luck, Ken Swan
Model Ts will break down, but can be fixed on the side of the road. Mark Twain said that he could never respect a man who could only spell a word one way. After all that I plan on doing to my 23 Hack this winter will more than likely still need to pull the engine next year. My wife just does not understand fun. Thanks for words of support.
Why are you pullling the engine, is it broke? Have you ever overhauled one? Do you know how expensive these things can be? Do you have a good lawyer? Is your wife willing to smell the fumes and odor? Do you even have a good spot in your living room and/or kitchen to do a good overhaul job? Are there enough towels around to snitch and get greasy without your wife knowing about it? These are important questions one must face before one tackles a serious T overhaul job. Good luck, you're gonna need it. Ken Swan