Radiator mounting

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum (old): Radiator mounting
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William Alexander (Springerpete) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 05:07 pm:

My high radiator '24 came in boxes but I am getting things back together now. What I need, and can not seem to foind on my own with my book resources, is the sequence to put all the parts together to mount the radiator, lower apron and shell. I hsave the mount bolt set, springs, inner and finish caps, nuts and cotter pins. I work at it but cant seem to get the sequence so the fender edges, apron and shell all fit correctly. I KNOW someone out there has been thru this and can share thought with me. Thanks, Bill.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Pawelek-Brookshire,Texas (Michaelpawelek) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 07:15 pm:

Bill, I hope this helps. The printing on this diagram in the MTFCA Engine Booklet is terrible, I'll email it to you also so it may be more clear...Michael
radiator


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Pawelek-Brookshire,Texas (Michaelpawelek) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 07:19 pm:

Smaller Image...
60


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Pawelek-Brookshire,Texas (Michaelpawelek) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 07:23 pm:

Even smaller! Gee, Ive never had these come out this large!!!
35


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 07:29 pm:

Bill:

The ;first thing to do when getting ready to mount your radiator on any radiator earlier than a 1925 is throw away the long nut on the bottom of the radiator stud. The 1909 to 1915 are two short and will spin inside the frame. The 09 to 16 are particularly bad, but the 17 to 25 is also too short. Order in a 1926/27 and save yourself some grief.
The order goes as follows:
1. Lay your long nut in the bottom of the frame.
2. Stand your spring (3930) on top of the long nut
3. Screw the stud into the long nut. IMPORTANT only screw the stud into your lower long nut far enough to put the cotter key in the stud or you won't have enough room up above.
4. Put your cotter key in the stud at the bottom (below) the long nut
5. Put your radiator stud spring lower thimble (3975L) on top of the frame. This is the thimble with all the small taps sticking out at the bottom.
6. Put your radiator and shell on top of the lower thimble. It should stick out above the shell.
7. Put your upper thimble on top of the lower thimble. The lower thimble should go inside the upper thimble.
8. Now if you have enough threads left on the stud to put your last nut on. go ahead and tighten down. If you do not have enough threads to put your top nut on the stud you may have to put a wedge below the stud to make it stick up higher. When you have the top nut on the stud remove the wedge. You should now be through with that job.

I wrote the above by memory (dangerous) I hope I did not leave any thing out.

Remember to save some grief later on either make the long nut for the bottom of the stud or they can be ordered in from the catologs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William Alexander (Springerpete) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 08:09 pm:

Dave and Michael: Thanks for all the data. This will do the trick for me. I appreciate you help. I knew I could count on the Forum !!! Bill


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Raymond McNett (Raytmodel) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 11:07 pm:

i never knew about the leather part. should you also use leather when mounting sub-frame to frame ? thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 11:58 pm:

Raymond:

I believe that the leather only went on the Brass Radiator cars, 09/16.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Pawelek-Brookshire,Texas (Michaelpawelek) on Tuesday, February 11, 2003 - 07:38 am:

I believe the leather was used up until '19. I use the leather as it takes care of some of the vibration at the mount....Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Raymond McNett (Raytmodel) on Tuesday, February 11, 2003 - 09:38 pm:

how about the sub frame mounts to the frame mounts ? about to get the wood cut for the 15 and not sure about that. nothing between them on tear down, rats might have eat it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Raymond McNett (Raytmodel) on Tuesday, February 11, 2003 - 09:42 pm:

also if i put anything between the mounts will it afect the body alingment?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Wednesday, February 12, 2003 - 01:25 am:

Raymont:

Yes if you put anything in between the frame brackets and the main sill brackets you throw the entire body out of kildter and it will effect opening and closing of doors.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan (Piewagon) on Saturday, February 15, 2003 - 08:53 pm:

Dave:

FYI the radiator stud lower "nut" was unchanged from 09-21. On 10/4/21 they only changed the stock it was made from to stock with a rounded edge but it was still the same length and width as 09-21. They mounted the hole offcenter starting 4/25/24 but the "nut" itself was the same length/width. The longer nut started in late '25 for the '26 model year and was retained for '27. The purpose of the nut was to provide a platform for the spring and only in 26 did they actually try to prevent it from turning by making it long enough to bang against the frame sides it would seem. Before that the cotter pin kept the thing from spinning off the end and the other cotter at the top nut made the whole thing stay together but they must have used some sort of a simple jig or wrench to hold that bottom nut from turning while they put a bit of tension on the spring. The leather pad was used until April of 1919.


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