Ken Swan,i took your advice and ordered the two books you recomended.Also instead of trying my old bod to remove the engine and trans,i think i will remove the pistons ,hone the cylinders ,do a valve job and replace the rings,this engine hasn't been run in at least 10 years,the rings may be worn or stuck.The cylinder walls look good except 3&4 which have some pitting at the top back of the cylinder,the engine may have set a long time allowing moisture to build up.the walls in general are smooth and shiny.I drained the sludge out when i first got this thing back in November,it took three days to finally stop dripping and i only had a quart in the pan,so i put five quarts of cheap 5w30 hd in and crank it every day at least i know it is getting lube in the lower part of the engine and a good old oil can for the top.any other ideas?,if i am out and about this summer i may try to stop by for a visit and some enlightment,i go fishing at Tunica Lake several times a year while my daughter and son-in-law go to the casinos.Selmer isn't off the track. Thanks again for your help,the forum is great for people like me who know enough to be dangerous. Rick Goelz

Hey, I am doing this out of self preservation. I don't want you running over me or worse yet calling me because you broke down for not paying attention to me!

I would change oil very,very frequently for the first several hundred miles and use detergent oil. That will help loosen that old crud. I have to tell you there is a risk in doing what you're doing and that is some of the crud may stop up the inside oil line. When that happens you will lose a front rod and maybe even the front main.

When you hone the cylinders, don't try to polish the walls just leave the walls a little buffed, that will force the rings to have to reseat themselves. Reseating will take some time but the rings will eventually reseat IF they ar not worn out AND there is not too much wear between the piston and cylinder.

Stop by anytime, I keep a coffee pot on. Ken Swan