Just installed dippers on my T and decided to use self locking nuts instead of the original with cotter pins - thought it would save time and skin.
You guessed it !!! the set of bolts with self locking nuts must be defective. I checked - re-checked and decided that all was adjusted and rags clear etc so closed up the pan. - Fresh oil - checked and fired up the old girl. She fired up as usual on the first crank, idled for a bit then off for a quick spin - 100 yards an all hell breaks loose. Shut it down and pushed it back into the driveway and back into the garage.
Drained the oil and dropped the pan to be greeted with two shims. - On the missing list are one bolt and one nut - my guess buried somewhere hard to find. After the inital shock I checked the remaining lock nuts and found two others barely finger tight.
I will call the Supplier Smith & Jones on Monday and suggest they advise their supplier and any other customers such as myself.
S&J are great people and have provided me great parts with first class service so this is no reflection on them. -
Thought I would advise you guys -
PS - I am now going back to cotter pins once I find the missing nut & bolt.

Thanks for passing that info on as that may save a newbee like me alot of headache....mack

i been using self locking nuts on the mains and rods on model Ts and model As for 30 years and never had a problem i get mine at napa listed under connection rod nuts i know the t ones are used in international gas truck engines .

Stuart, I believe that the self locking nuts are to be used only ONCE then thrown out. If you took them off multiple times while adjusting the bearings they are no good. Some folks use regular nuts during the process of getting the shim thickness correct, then use the locking nuts only for the final and last fit...Michael

Guys - thanks for the tips - the nuts were taken straight from the sealed bags - so like you I am still scratching my head. They were sealed on the once and only use - but failed. - Now that they are buried somewhere in the engine - where is the best place to start to find the nut,bolt & washer.
I am new to T's one year. Help !!! - I am going to take the day off work to tomorrow so you can guess what the project is ??
Thanks Stuart

Stuart, Check for the missing parts on the ledge all around the bottom of the engine pan. Also drain the oil and see if anything comes out with the oil and then stick your finger into the drain hole and feel around the ledge above the hole for loose parts. Finally, you may have to take the hogshead off and have someone turn the engine over slowly with the hand crank while you look at the magnets on the flywheel with a flashlight to see if any loose parts are stuck to the magnets....Michael

Aircraft Engines went from cotters pins to Pal nuts to self locking and no problems are prevalent. Sounds like bad nuts.

Michael / Bill- thank you for the advice. Tonight I decided that the removal of the hogs head and everything hanging off it looked a little daunting so - in my best grubby clothes climbed under Lizzy and Walla !!! I reached into the back of the sump and twisted and turned and found a nut, 1/3 rd there - now the bolt - just me and the mag - with almost blood running, and a big scream the bolt some-how ended up in my hands. Now I'm on a roll - just me and the washer - I decided to check the oil I drained off and - guess what ?? the washer !!! - I'm now home and dry - replaced the new fancy bolts self locking nuts with Henry's 80 year old cotter pin nuts.
Tomorrow night the I will close her up - dump in some oil and take her for a test drive !!!!
Fingers crossed with what skin is left on them. !!

Opp's forgot to mention - six of the eight nuts were bad so thank goodenss I shut her down at the first sound that all was not well.
PS - I spoke to Simth & Jones and advised them to call their customers - I hope they do !!!

Stuart:

Be sure to use New rod bolts & nuts from Chaffin's.........nice stuff & reliable
Made just like Henry's original.

Bob Jablonski