Trailering a touring with open trailer

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum (old): Trailering a touring with open trailer
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark (Mark) on Wednesday, April 30, 2003 - 11:55 pm:

I have searched the archives and read what was posted on trailering a touring, but it didn't really answer my question.

I am going to be trailering a 23 touring on an open trailer behind a pick-up truck, and would like to know if it's best to keep the top up down? Also, what would be a safe speed to drive? I'm thinking it shouldn't be towed at freeway speeds.

I've never towed a touring car before, and want to do it right and not mess things up for the owner.

Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson (Modelt12) on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 02:26 am:

Mark:

You could right a book about trailering a T. I will list just a few.

1. Always load the T forward (front end towards the tow vehicle in case a door comes open. If you tow it backwards and a door comes open it will snap it off.

2. Never tow with the top up, it will blow it off.

3. Run a strap around the top.

4. Never,never, never use chains to tie a T down. They can work back and forth and pretty soon you got a T coming off the back of a trailer. Beg,borrow or steal four ratchet straps and fasten to the four corners of the T.

5. I have no problem towing a T at highway (freeway) speeds.

6. try to balance the car so there is slightly more weight on the front of the trailer.

7. Carry an extra set of trailer wheel bearings with you.

8. Inflate your trailer tires to at least 45 LBS.

9. safty chains and good rear lights.

10. Either put your T in high gear or have the emergency brake all the way on.

11. Never,never,never haul a T with the cover on it, as that is a sure way to ruin a paint job. The material no matter how soft will flap on the paint until it is ruined.

I can't stress how important number 4 is. Ratchet straps at $24.00 seems expensive but they would look mighty cheap if you dump a T off your trailer. I have known that to happen with guys using chains. If nothing else a good way to ruin the paint job on the axles is to wrap chain around the axles. If nothing else get yourself four axle straps (these are about 14 inches long with eyelets) and use them. Don't gamble


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steven Beckett (Becketthawg2000) on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 02:48 am:

I believe it's also a good idea to remove the seat cushions that aren't fastened down, and also the floor mats and floor boards. You might also consider putting straps around the hood or removing it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Grant Stewart, Sr. (Davidgstewartsr) on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 07:18 am:

I use two ratchet straps on each end, with both ends under tension.

I block both sides of the front wheels and use a small ratchet strap to keep the rear blocking board in place. The front blocks are a part of my trailer.

I tow an open car backward with the top down and strapped down, with the windshield open to reduce wind resistance. This is partly for weight distribution and partly to protect the front of the car.

I tow a sedan forward partly for better weight distribution, because there is more weight on the rear axle of a sedan than a touring , and partly for aerodynamics.

I use bungee cords to hold the doors closed from the inside. There is no safety in which direction you tow the car because the doors on a Fordor, for instance, open both directions. Nothing can be left to chance here. Normal hauling vibrations will open the doors if left only to their latches.

On a closed car I close all the windows to protect the interior.

Before hauling, I check the fuel tanks on the kerosene lamps to make sure they will not vibrate off. If there is any looseness, I remove them and put them inside the car. I also check the headlight doors on acetylene headlights and if there is any possibility of them jarring open, I tape them shut.

If the front floorboards are loose, I remove them and put them in the back.

I travel the speed limit when empty, but I don't exceed 60 with an open car, nor 55 with a closed car. Kinetic energy at 70 mph is almost double what it is at 50 mph. Not only the risk of accident, but also the effect of natural sandblasting just isn't worth it.

I check out the trailer lights and tire pressure before leaving home. I use the manufacturer's maximum load recommendations on the tire pressure.

I check the tightness of the hitch and ball and overall condition of the trailer and its load at every fuel stop.

I do not use tarps because I think they are counterproductive. The damage caused by the abrasion of ropes and tarps seems to me to be greater than that of the wind. It was raining when I left Kentucky with an open car headed for Denver, and the rain did a good job of washing off the dust. Had I put a tarp on the car, it would have turned the dust into sandpaper.

Before leaving with the loaded car, I make sure the four hood latches are secure. If any of the four does not hold the hood down properly, I remove the hood altogether.

I check the radiator cap to make sure it is on tight.

I remove the hubcaps to prevent damage to them in onloading and offloading.

Anything else loose on the car is either removed or secured.

Nearing home, before offloading the car from the trailer, I like to stop at a do-it-yourself car wash and pressure wash the car chassis and undersides of the fenders, etc.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John H (26tourer) on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 07:44 am:

All I do is put the handbrake on, tie the wheels down with rope around the axles and either put the top down (and strap it down) or take it off altogether. Make sure the bonnet and doors are properly latched and the fuel turned off.
Given that the T isn't going to be towed at that much faster than its own top speed, I don't think any special precautions need to be taken.
John H


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Pawelek-Brookshire,Texas (Michaelpawelek) on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 08:56 am:

Mark, A bit of a note on trailers if you buy your own. I own 16 trailers for my business and have learned to spend a little extra money up front to avoid problems and endanger others lives at a future date.
(1) If possible buy a tandem axle trailer not a single axle unit. Single axle trailers are harder to balance a load on, can become hard to control if a pot hole is hit at higher speeds and very hard to control with a tire blowout. A two axle trailer is easier to balance, rides smoother and if you have tire trouble can still be driven slowly with only one good tire on a side at least to limp along to get to a service area.
(2) If you tow a lot, eventually some idiot will pull out in front of you and you will have to panic stop. Get trailer brakes now! Without brakes on the trailer you run the risk of jack knifing the tow vehicle and the trailer which is very dangerous to you and others on the road. With good trailer brakes the tow unit stops the tow unit and the trailer stops the trailer. I cannot stress this enough, trailer brakes saved my life a few years back and I will not pull a large trailer without them.
(3) Buy a trailer a bit longer than you think you need. My first tow trailer for my Model A Sedan was a 14 foot unit. To balance the weighted trailer the back foot of the Model A hung out over the rear end. Also an overly short trailer is really hard to load. The Model T is just underpowered enough that you have to get a "running" start up the ramps and almost immediately hit the brakes so you don't drive into the front of the trailer. Practice loading and unloading the Model T many times at home before you get on the road until it becomes second hand. I also carry a winch along in case I have to load the Model T without engine power and have practiced winching the T onto the trailer dozens of time. This process involved mounting 2 huge eye bolts to the frame at the front of the trailer to attach the winch unit. I have also mounted a 4 foot plywood deflector at the front of the trailer for flying road debris and rocks. It is painted the same color as the trailer, has nice metal moulding at the edges and looks like it came from the factory installed. 4 u-bolts make it easy to bolt on and take off...Michael
P.S.- I have marks on the trailer floor showing me where to drive the Model T so that the trailer is properly balanced. This way there is no guessing when on the raod or when trying to load the Model T in rain or bad weather.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Harrold (Oldgeezer) on Thursday, May 01, 2003 - 09:25 am:

I’ve towed a Model T with both a single axle trailer without brakes and a tandem axle jobbie with brakes. The peace of mind you get from using the tandem with brakes is worth the price. Twice I’ve crossed the country hauling vehicles and had no problems at all. The previous suggestions are worth following.

Tie things down, remove any items that may blow off/open, check the load often and have a great trip.

My big complaint I have with many old car people is that they think of their car/trailer only when they get ready to use it. Don’t wait till the planned trip day to check things out. Do your homework. Make sure your trailer and towing vehicle are ready for the trip. Safety items and proper maintenance are part of the procedure.

I’ve hauled a 5,000 lb engine from the west coast to Ohio and it never moved on the trailer. This was not an accident. I was very careful about how the engine was loaded and balanced on the trailer. Tying it down was a major consideration. On very heavy loads I use both chains and straps. Kinda like the guy who wares both a belt and suspenders. On a Model T I prefer straps for the reasons mentioned above, however the straps must be in good condition with no damaged parts . These things do not cost much. There is no reason not to have a good set on hand at all times.

Be safe. Think about what you are doing every minute you are on the road. Do not just sit back and ride. Always, always consider the possibility that someone will pull out in front of you, cut you off or stop suddenly. Be prepared.

Have a safe trip.

Dick


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