12-24-1914 engine what would you do?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: 12-24-1914 engine what would you do?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 10:12 pm:

We got an engine in the shop to go thru for selling. The tag on it shows it was rebuilt. Right now I have only the head, valve covers and trans cover off.
The casting date is 12-24-1914 with a build date of Feb 9-10 of 1915.
The pan is correct except someone has drilled out the rivets and used bolts to mount one ear back on, it is the narrow nose 3 rivet pan. I would have to check but think they are 3/8". Welded or brazed on inside over bolt head.
The magneto coil ring is correct; double stack oval with 3/4 inch magnets.
New valves, aluminum pistons with solid valve lifters.
By eye ball, looks to be almost 1/8" gap between the coils and magnets.
I'll pull the bottom off tomorrow.
I am trying to get a jump on what will be needed for this engine so here is what would you do; thinking about the future I am thinking installing a newer flywheel with ring gear and a notched magneto coil plate and maybe adjustable lifters. I know some of the died-in-the-wool keep it original people might object but considering the number of request for help in doing the change over might be a good idea from the get go. The coil ring has to be replaced anyway, from what I can see just around the top, it's nasty!
The hogs head is wrong being the non reinforced aluminum and
the pedals have the lettered heads welded on which I think by the build date would be ribbed, also the clutch lever/shaft is the newer style.
Ok until I add more tomorrow I'll shut up and listen.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 10:42 pm:

The ear would bother me. I'm not too certain about adjustable lifters, you'd have to check them over carefully for proper machining and hardness. I know, grinding the valve stems is time-consuming, but once they are set, they stay!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 10:53 pm:

If you're going to "go thru for selling" this engine then your answers should be simple. What approach will produce the highest net profit? Opinions about what different folks would prefer in a '15 engine are only indicators of what buyers out there might want, but what's important in this case is sale value since the engine will eventually go into an unknown car maybe not even of the same year model. It would be a totally different story it it were in its original car.

Just my $0.02 worth.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Hylen- Central Minnesota on Friday, January 06, 2017 - 03:43 am:

Henry make a good point. If it were mine, it either list it for sale as is, or go though it completely and make everything right. There's probably more profit in selling as is.

I have no problem installing a ring gear flywheel for possible use later. I do that on all of my own engines. Someday, my life could change to the point that having a starter might not seem laughable. If that day comes, I'm sure that changing out the flywheel would be a daunting task.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, January 06, 2017 - 08:08 am:

I would change the flywheel and install a later oval coil ring if it were mine. The pan bolts are easily replaced by rivets, then braze over them to stop leaks.

Check / repair everything else and then sell it. It is a very desirable date as there are lots of "1915" Model T's out there that don't have a correct block. I would suspect that if it has been professionally inspected and repaired it is worth several thousand dollars to the right guy. Nearly everyone wants a starter at some point.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, January 06, 2017 - 11:15 am:

If the magneto gap is really 1/8", I'd sure want to fix that.


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