Is Ditzler 9000 black the right paint for a 1922-23 body?
It is black, and great quality. Far better than the original paint. If you have it, it would certainly work and look great.
If you were purely after authenticity you would use something a lot cheaper and apply it hastily and get some runs in the finish. I doubt that you want to be that authentic!
Royce, I've always enjoyed your posts, whether giving advice or arguing a fine point with someone, because you clearly possess a wealth of both experience and knowledge. And you express yourself well.
Your post above struck me as the penultimate submission in the constant debate about period-correct authenticity and the question of whether modern materials 'improve' a Model T.
I've printed your post and hung it on my wall, and will refer to it with a chuckle whenever someone gets into that debate, whether it's about bronze thrust bearings, multi-viscosity oil, tire flaps, Zerk fittings, roller bearing fan hubs, anti-freeze, Kevlar bands, and so on....
By the way, I mean this sincerely. I'm not being snarky.
Believe it or not, there are folks in the upper echelons of the Mopar restoration competitive show world that go to great pains to duplicate the factory paint runs and orange peel that the cars had on them when they left the factory!
I still applaud this gentleman who attempted to duplicate the Ford factory paint formula a few years ago:
Royce is correct, but I will advise Ignacio that the 9000 is a blue-based black, and as such, is a great choice for the T black, other blacks actually have a brown tint to them.
I had a great pic of my '15s wheels painted with it, but it's lost since my hard-drive crashed.
A favorite photo from that era. Most people would strive to create a paint job as nice as that using DDL and still not make it. The products they had available at that time were capable of a fine finish, they just weren't as durable as what we have available to us today.
Ignacio...that's the best paint on earth in my opinion, next to Imron anyway. And a lot safer to use than Imron. Trouble is, it's getting super hard to find. Do you have a good source for it? I could use a quart of it. It dries out to a nice black-black. Put some hardener in it and will it ever shine!
@Tim I was just using it for its widely used color code so no I don't have a source for Ditzler 9000.
@Royce my current paint job of unknown origin is very authentic with runs and imperfections :-) I doubt that it is original.
Tim, any store selling PPG Automotive Refinish can order it in for you. If they say they can't get it, they're just too lazy to sell to a walk-in unless you're state has gone off the deep end with waterborne and it's not available for legal reasons.
(Message edited by WMH on January 06, 2017)
I wouldn't trust anything you see in that picture...it's been airbrushed by a guy who knows what he's doing, but I can see problems all over it, that had to be touch ups.
Ditzler is acrylic enamel, which is hard to get and just as expensive as urethane, but not as good. If you go urethane and want a pure black, use PPG Deltron 1684- black toner. For the same result, but cheaper price, Matrix #84 black toner is great and a pure black. Both must be clear coated.
Ditzler is a PPG family name that encompasses lacquers and enamels. In the above post I made the assumption that Duracryl (DDL) lacquer is what was being discussed as that is what is still available. Delstar (DAR) acrylic enamel has been taken out of production. This was a problem with DuPont Centari some time ago as enamels went by the wayside in favor of urethanes. PPG Concept urethane is an excellent single stage product, though not as user friendly as some of the past options being discussed. Things are only going to get more complicated if our government succeeds in pushing waterborne paints. Right now technology is the biggest thing holding them back.
I gave the wrong numbers for the black toners. Should have been " Deltron - 1683", or Matrix #83 for a pure black color. Concept is a good urethane, but one problem is as a single stage, you can get color change after color sanding and buffing. With base/clear method, you don't get that color change after buffing and you're able to fix any problems with the color (or remove dirt nibs) prior to clear application.