I have a 1910 block that never had babbitt poured
as main bearings. Only main caps were poured. Need recommendations for some shop or person to
cut and pour the block for a Scat crankshaft.
are you needing to fit a standard configuration "T" crankshaft or a Model A sized journals ? if you are using a "T" sized crankshaft then a slight overbore of the iron block will allow babbitting to "T" size ...if you are installing a Model "A" size crankshaft then you will also need caps that are made for this purpose...I can do this operation in either case ...call or email me for details ...gene French 970-581-2808 email email@example.com
Dale, I understand what you are trying to do but please consider leaving block as original and putting re babbited main caps in. Early T blocks went many thousands of miles in iron blocks. Are you still looking for early hubs?
We have done several of these. Gene's input is right on. You would do well to have him handle it for you. He knows the business.
I agree with Kim. My 1910 is still running on the cast iron in the block. If there is no problem with the block, I would leave it alone. I have driven mine about 18,000 miles in the past 10 years. I have contemplated installing a Scat crank, but I would put a standard one in, leaving the block alone.
I agree with both Kim and Chris. No reason to bore the cast iron block if the bearings are in alignment. Unlike steal, cast iron makes a good bearing. Just rebabbitt the caps if needed.
Thanks for your input. Gene standard stroke.
Chris is correct in stating that "if there is no problem with the block" ...in the 3 cases I have encountered the block journals were no longer in alignment , and the customers were using a reground crankshaft ...since you will have standard diameter journals , you may be able to use the iron block bearings ...check the alignment and cylindrical form to be sure that you have a useable journal ...excess clearance is excess clearance regardless of how it occurs ...not much pressure on the block side , but if there is an alignment or size issue, the results will be the same as with a full babbitted journal ...always an optimist...gene french
There is a reason Ford discontinued using the block for the bearing early in production. It is hard on the shaft. Not the iron itself, but any foreign matter that gets in will not embed, like it would in babbit, and will scratch the shaft. We always babbit these blocks.
I am the last one to recommend boring and babbitting a 1910 block but sometimes it is called for. I've had in the past, and now have a 1910 block where the bearing saddles are not in alignment and there is uneven wear.
On another, the alignment was pretty good but there was a bit of wear in the first main. I was able to find a new crankshaft and the fit was good. Simply a matter of rebabbitting the caps.
It is your block, do as you wish. However, I like good examples of original things kept as such, IF it is practical to do so.
Most early blocks have had the main bearings updated either due to actual need, or the perceived need merely believing that it HAD to be done. The casting process used early on was less accurate, and blocks were cast lighter and thinner sometimes with pattern shifts. Early blocks are more fragile than the later blocks, and many of them have required major repairs. Once that point is reached, you may as well Babbitt the block. IF (big IF) an original '09/'10 block is in good condition, I would like to see it kept as original. But that is me, and it is your block.
I am always pleased when I see real early blocks being used in appropriate cars, and on tours!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Wayne-you summed up what I have been thinking. There is no way to undo a machining process like that. It's similar to putting in valve seats "just because". If it is necessary, that's fine; it keeps another early block running. The only main bearings that are not in alignment that I have seen are because of damage.
My 1910 has been on the road in collectors' hands since 1947. When I took the engine apart 3 years ago, there was less than 0.001 wear total to the cast iron block and the crankshaft.
If it were mine, and the bearings are still in alignment, and I was going to use a Scat crankshaft, like Dale, I would leave it alone and just replace the caps.
Just my thoughts and opinions.
One more point Dale, I've had around 30 open valve blocks. None were bored and babbited. Wish I had some of them back!