WhAT IS THE DIFFICULTY IN PULLING THE CAM GEAR WITH THE SHAFT IN THE BLOCK AND IN THE CAR. THANKS, JERRY.
No different than pulling it with the engine out of the car. You will have to remove the radiator, fan, crank pulley, and front cover. No big deal.
The cam nut is supposed to sit really tight, so if you have any of the softer material timing gears it may be damaged in the teeth when loosening the nut?
(I've usually pulled the whole cam and clamped it in a alu lined vice while tightening and untighening the cam nut, but if it's a steel gear there shouldn't be a problem untightening with the cam in the engine, I think?)
Will I need a gear puller?
Just a pair of large screwdrivers will work. No way to use a puller.
Royce, thanks. Any thoughts on installing the modern oil seal after I pull the gear. I'll dig out the old seal, scoop out any remains, and push in the new one. J.
That will work if you have a front cover that will accept the modern seal. Before 1915 they don't. The modern seal gets glued in place with RTV.
I drill and tap a couple of jacking screws on my timing gear if the fit is really tight. It sure makes it easy to remove.
My front cover is on a 1917 block, no gen. Thanks for all the help. What would we do without this forum. J.
Neat idea, Gene. The rear brake drums on my old Nissan pickup truck had tapped holes from the factory to use with jacking screws. Worked great!
I had a bronze gear on and had a really fun time getting it off. Now before I install one I always take a second to drill and tap a couple of holes for the next guy.
Is it possible to use your puller on a pre- 1919 block, Steve ?
Dunno. I haven't tried it. I made those arms just for this.
Done several mostly changeover from a bad fiber gear
Just takes few tries get it on correctly if using
Later style gears
Sorry read your post you want it off
Do as others but take it slow and easy
Not as much room on the pre 19 blocks but still doable
Steve, that gear looks perfectly fine, and probably very quiet in its function.
Roger, point taken on getting the cam nut tight. I go a different route. I fit the gear to the cam and then grip the gear in a soft jaw vice, leaving the cam un-touched. That way there is no chance of damaging/bending the cam. I have a genuine Ford cam nut wrench, but it needs helps to stay on the nut so it does not damage the nut as pressure is applied and it tries to crank off the flats. I have made a tool which is held in place by the timer nut. This keeps the cam nut wrench firmly in place.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Yes, John, it's very quiet.
FWIW, a Ford Model A spark plug wrench fits the T camshaft nut perfectly.