Hi so I have the vendor tool for removing the rear axle Hyatt roller bearing sleeve. I've never used it before. The series of pictures below shows my failures and successes. Steve Jelf's video shows you how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRJFGH8_w0w
But I don't have a big vise. Also the first (actually both) sleeve would not turn (much) for me using a pry bar to hold the housing and a big socket extension rod. The second one would turn a little each way and then stop. I also don't have 3 hands.
I don't recommend what I did on the first sleeve which was fold the sleeve thus destroying it. I used a chisel to fold it and then a vise grip to clamp it and pry it out. Again, I don't recommend this if you can avoid it.
The second sleeve I noticed actually turned a little in either direction using the vendor tool but then stopped turning. Again I don't have 3 hands. What to do? Use a scissor jack and work it out. Be careful that you don't put too much pressure using the scissor jack because you might break the tool.
Chisel destructively folding the sleeve on itself. Use the vise grip and a pry bar to get the sleeve and sometimes the chisel out.
Pry bar and vise grip getting folded sleeve out.
Vise grip holding edge of folded sleeve.
Folded sleeve is out.
Scissor jack method of using vendor tool to remove sleeve. This got the sleeve moving when I could not with 2 hands.
You know, if it was in good shape to begin with, there was no reason at all to remove/destroy it.
I guess you had to remove it to put a neoprene seal behind it, but still...
Clean out the sleeve well with lacquer thinner, get all old grease out.
Then clean out the hole for the plunger of the tool to fit into the hole. Then clean out the groove of the 'V' split of that sleeve.
Using penetrating oil to clear sleeve and lube around a stuck sleeve.
Cleaned and now identifying the position of the 'V' split. You want to twist and pull out the sleeve in the direction of the 'V' slit, that will compress the 'V' notch and reduce the diameter of the sleeve for withdrawal.
As you twist the tool a bit of persuasion with a large hammer on the big bar placed in the tool with whack out the sleeve as you twist in the right direction at the same time as whacking.
oh forgot to post reply to your issue:
second sleeve I noticed actually turned a little in either direction using the vendor tool but then stopped turning
Sometimes that happens if you don't pull as you twist, and the sleeve 'dimple' will fall back into the retaining hole that is outboard of the axle tube. Falling back to lock the sleeve again.
If you'll follow my crude arrows, considering where the retaining dimple is located, where the grease hole is located and location of the split, might you want to rotate in the opposite direction than you suggest in order to close the gap?
Someone mentioned it before, but the vendors offer two quality levels on the sleeves. Since this is a job that you only want to do once, splurge and get the highest quality sleeves!
Did you remove the grease fitting? Sometimes it might hinder the removal. Also follow Jerry's direction above. You might even need to use something to drive the dimple loose before you use the tool. Anyway, not knowing your exact situation, it is hard to understand why you had so much trouble, but those parts might have been in place for 100 years, so they are frozen in place. Sometimes a part must be destroyed to remove.
Yep better in that direction. Got it.
But twisting is needed! Pulling straight out won't do.
Ignatio, the hole in the sleeve is the way the tool engages in the sleeve. There is also a dimple in the sleeve which engages it in the tube and stops it moving. All you need to do is screw the sleeve around until the dimple comes out of its hole in the housing. It will screw one way, not the other. Try first and follow that way. Then continue to screw as you pull on the tool and the sleeve will come out easily.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Allan gives good advice. To go one step further, when I wanted to remove mine I found they were pretty well stuck in place. So, I used a C-clamp and a short piece if dowel (slightly smaller diameter than the dimple hole) and compressed the dimple just enough so its top was even with the inside surface of the housing. This done it twisted right out with the tool.
Re-did the photo to show more leverage in collapsing the sleeve obtained where plunger tang button of the sleeve tool engages in the grease cup hole. More leverage in this direction to release the lock 'dimple' and collapse the sleeve when pulling while twisting.
Hyatt sleeve showing grease hole and retention dimple on outside.
Don't worry on that sleeve chisel removal,
We have all been there, done that, even the Ford Service Bulletins show you can resort to chisel and hammer and pliers or vise grips to collapse that dang sleeve, some of them are real *#@*!# to remove!
Ouch.I understand the lack of 3 hands agitation. Been there myself. Never thought to get them out the way you did. "Never give up, Never surrender" (Galaxy Quest quote).
Sometimes you need to get your wife or neighbor to give you the third hand.
Here's one that I took out of rear end it would not let the axle go with the bearing still on it had to cut the axle to get the bearing and sleeve assembly out
I must be lucky. I've pulled probably half a dozen by now, and have had no problem with any of 'em.
Unless the sleeve is rusted in place, the tool usually works well. It is important to turn the tool/sleeve combination in the direction that will collapse the sleeve. That would be turning counterclockwise for the right housing and clockwise for the left (driver's side) housing. Remember "left is right" and "right is left". The same is true for the handedness for the front wheel bearings.
Larry, with the proviso that previous mechanics/handymen have fitted the correct sleeve to the housing!! Otherwise it is still a case of try which twist works.
Allan from down under.
I examined the sleeve that I bent out and sure enough there were rust spots on the back side that maybe fused it to the axle. The other side that came out with less difficulty did not have rust spots.
The cool thing about using the scissor jack is that if you don't have a big vise and are working alone you can manage it.
Mine were really stuck, nearly destroyed the tool Lang's sells on the first one, used heat from propane torch on the others and they came out. Can't hurt a thing with heat, the small torch is all you need.