Ruckstell part question: P148A

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Ruckstell part question: P148A
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 01:31 am:

On my Ruckstell the shift lock assembly is loose. Specifically, the hole in P148A is a bit wallowed out and let's the shift lock arm P98A wiggle around before actually shifting.

What is that shifter body, P148A, made out of? Can I mig weld it? If so I'd like to weld it, dremel it smooth, and then redrill it to be a nice snug fit on that shift lock arm. Worst case I'll order a new one from Chaffins, but I'm hoping I can save that $88.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 03:28 am:

Seth, I overcame the same problem via a different route. You will need access to a welder, a lathe and an adjustable reamer.

My P-148-A is bronze. There is not enough material to bore it out to fit a bushing, so I reamed it back into round so as little material as possible was removed.
To the P-98-A I welded some 3/4" rod to the back of the L shape as close to in line as the worn part as I could judge. This makes a T shape. The worn part of the shaft was chucked in the lathe on an unworn section and the welded on piece turned into round, at no particular size.
Then the worn section of the shaft was built up with the welder. To machine this welding down, the welded on and machined-into-round section is chucked in the lathe. The weld is turned down to match the reamed hole in the P-148-A housing.
All that remained was to cut off the welded on piece used to hold it in the lathe.

It sounds complicated but really isn't. It would have cost me much more to get new parts and then have them shipped to Australia. You are lucky.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 03:36 am:

I think it's cast iron - that would make it hard to weld. I would think the modification Stan Howe used to make is easier - he milled the housing larger and made a new shaft from 0.750" rod:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/98036.html?1249688994


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth in Alabama on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 07:44 am:

Hmmm . . . I need more tools. Especially a small metal lathe would help me make all kinds of stuff.

Unfortunately Allan where it's easier for you to make the parts you need it often times ends up being easier for me to buy them because I don't have the same tools. I have a mig welder but no lathe and no easy access to one.

Roger I think I might can make that work with what I have. It won't be as pretty as Stan's but it'll take out the slop and all that I'll have to buy is the 3/4" drill bit.

Thanks everybody!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan McEachern on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 11:11 am:

Allan's method is the best solution to a worn bore in the housing. As noted, the housings are thin to begin with. The only thing I do differently is that I braze up the shaft and turn the braze to size. On a cast iron housing this is a better solution, for a bronze housing it does not matter. I have repaired housings that had the top portion broken out by brazing a ring on the broken section but I would never attempt to mig weld it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 11:27 am:

Seth, buy a cheap set of adjustable reamers ... Harbor Freight quality. The will work just fine on cast iron. It is far easier to ream that hole out than to try to drill it with a bit. You can get shell bushings in a lot of sizes. Find one that will just slip on the shaft and ream the hole until you can press the bushing in the hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 11:36 am:

I didn't have that exact problem, but one of mine was caracked right at the top where the shifter arm is. I put a small hose clamp around it and so far it has been fine for 20 years.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 11:36 am:

cracked.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, January 19, 2017 - 06:06 pm:

I have only had experience with two early types which were both bronze castings. Should you have a cast iron unit, then Dan's brazing up of the shaft is a better solution. Reaming the hole in either type is much more manageable than trying to accurately mount the casting and drilling.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration