Headlight rim installation trouble on a '26 coupe

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Headlight rim installation trouble on a '26 coupe
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick in Florida on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 12:45 pm:

I'm having trouble installing the headlight rim into the bucket slots. Seems like the pegs are too long. I know they are supposed to fit because they came off, but when I removed the rims, I noticed that the bucket slots slots were pushed down toward the interior of the bucket and not aligned with the bucket rim making the removal of the reflectors very difficult because the reflector slots don't clear the bent in bucket slots without a lot of effort. I'm concerned that if I don't bend the bucket slots back in alignment with the bucket rim, the reflectors will not move forward with the aid of the tension spring, to meet the back of the lens to form a good seal.

Question: Are the bucket slots into which the rim pegs lock, supposed to be aligned with the circumference of the bucket or are they pushed in toward the center of the bucket as I found them? If I bend the bucket slots out to where they are even with the edge of the bucket, is it acceptable to shorten the pegs of the rim until they fit into the slot and lock when the rim is turned clockwise? Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Harper - Keene, NH on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 01:30 pm:

Hi Jim,

I recently helped a friend who had this problem with one of his headlight rims.
It took the two of us struggling with all manner of strap wenches to remove one of his rims. The other came off with little trouble. After closely inspecting the headlamp bucket and the rim (not a Ford rim, aftermarket) we found that the rivets (pegs) were too long compared to the ones on the other (Ford) rim! They were just a bit too long and when the rim was forced onto the bucket the rivets would get caught in the slot and not clear the depression through which they can be freed. A few minutes with the Dremel and an appropriate stone applied to the rivet ends and all was well. Good luck with your project, Bill


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen, South Texas on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 02:06 pm:

Some time ago, the repro headlight "doors" (not rims) were made with rivets that were too long. The pin portion of the stepped rivet had to be trimmed as Bill found out. As I recall, it was only about 1/16" that had to be ground off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick in Florida on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 05:05 pm:

Can someone with original 1926/'27 rims measure the pegs from the base to the tip and tell me exactly how long they should be? My rims are repros and I'll bet the pegs are too long. Thank you. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Menzies on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 05:42 pm:

I have two different models here and they appear to be about 1/8"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan Danbury, WI on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 06:26 pm:

Jim, Had the same problem with the re-pop ones I tried to install on my '26. The pegs on the one I had a small step from the larger part of the peg to the end which was smaller in diameter. I just cut the smaller part of the peg off and it matched the original ones on the old headlight trim rims I had. Then it fit fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen, South Texas on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 07:24 pm:

Don't cut the pin completely off or you'll end up with your glass lens and headlight door in the street.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 08:08 pm:

Another good tip is to have a pillow or towel on the floor under the headlight bucket while you're working on it. You never know when something might slip and the lens takes a dive for the concrete! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Prasek on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 09:33 pm:

Just wondering if these rims are something that is easy to find at a swap meet or are they all battered and beaten like mine?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick in Florida on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 11:02 pm:

Larry, I don't remember where I bought them, but I bought them in 1971 to replace the original, but rusted rims that were on my T when I bought it. as you can see in the picture, they look pretty nice, even after 46 years

One more question. When the lenses are mounted in the rims, are the tabs bent all the way down or just enough to hold them in. I'm concerned that, if I bend them all the way down over the lenses, the tabs might prevent the reflector and cord from seating properly against the lens to get a good seal. Thanks everyone for your help. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, January 22, 2017 - 12:16 am:

Just enough to hold the lens in the door. No more no less. One tab on each of the 4 places will be fine. The flats on the lens are a long way from where the seal seats anyway.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Sunday, January 22, 2017 - 02:54 am:

Jim, re the tabs. I bend both tabs at right angles to the clips on two adjacent clips. The lens can be pushed against both those clips while you bend the others over to hold the lens in place. You will never get them really tight without running the risk of cracking the lens.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


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