Ok, this as far as know is how this sediment bulb goes together...please let me know if I've got it wrong or not or if there are other configurations for 26-27 that are different than this one.
The pictures I've got have a filter screen with a screen cage, that I'm taking as original equipment...however Langs sells something very much like it and the only place I can see that theirs would fit would be in place of the original...but what the spring is for I can't guess...the original didn't have one as far as I know...so is the replacement filter a bit shorter requiring a spring or is the original missing a spring?
Correction...I thought there was a pipe in the middle of the replacement filter...went back and looked again at the picture and found it was only the screen overlap...silly me.
Instead of a "LEAD GASKET" it's a "COPPER CRUSH WASHER"
The original Improved Car sediment bulb didn't have a 'cage' for the screen.
The screen upper brass cap has a snout that fits up into the recess at the top of the iron bowl, right under the valve opening.
Note counter bore up inside the bowl.
The screen with brass cap, open at top fits into the counter bore. The screen is soldered to the brass cap. The cylinder screen is open at the bottom. Original screen cylinders have a seam down the length too. And the bottom of the cylinder is held captive by a counter bore in the inside of the large nut that is threaded for the drain plug.
Ford drawing of cut away '26-'27 sediment bulb.
I purchased a vendors 26-27 fuel valve that was cast iron and was an exact copy the advertisement said pressure tested and they said no more. When I got the part there was further qualifications as to the test, it was tested with 10 lbs of water. The 10 lbs of water test most likely did the job, however with gasoline under almost no pressure it failed. Even when shut off it still dripped. Gasoline is far less dense and will get through anywhere. There must have been a matched set of cutters to cut the inside of the casting and the valve, and there must have been a specific polishing compound to do the finish, If they don't match it will leak.
Sure looks like a cartridge basket in the ford cutaway drawing. I'm the one that started this drawing. I'm cleaning up mine. Mart is working off my pics. Here are some pics of disassembly.
My unit does not have a spring and the bulb is cast brass or bronze, not iron.
This is what Mr.Martynn Vowell was working off since he didn't have a drawing. The question is on the replacement filter screen that most of the vendors carry , what is the spring for ??? Why is the spring needed ???
The copper screen basket is two parts. The nipple end slips over the basket and the screen was simply rolled into the basket, no soldering on this old thing. The screen is also fine copper wire mesh. Again all held in by the bottom nut that has a groove the the screen basket sits in. Like Dan sez. Here's a pic of the counterbore for the screen basket nipple to fit into.
George found that soaking the cage for a bit in solvents the head piece came off from the barrel.
If the originals didn't have this filters in it with this cage barrel like George's car does...do you think it was an after market accessory that at some point that replaced the one that was in there originally?
Perhaps mine is an old replacement, doesn't have ant For markings. Only thing on it is a raised triangle just under the fuel line outlet. Some folks here are saying that original is cast iron, mine appears to be cast bronze . Even the pics that dan posted looks like bronze to me. The threaded ends that go into the tank look brassy to me.
Here's the marking on my bulb, I'm cleaning up. Raised triangle.
Ditto to what Dan said. My original 1926 sediment bowl valve had no screen cage. As Dan said, the screen had a brass lid and nipple that fit into the upper hole. Jim Patrick
I had my first 1927 Roadster fire car for about 10 years before I found there was a filter in that bowl.
The filter was more than half full of what looked like just plain dirt.
There was a thick flat leather washer between the filter top and bowl that is not shown.
This vehicle had been in use less than 20 years by a fire chief and then traded in on a new truck in 1946. It then sat for over 40 years at a car dealership show room to show how well a Ford can last. That truck was still in service in 1980 and had less than 6,000 miles on it at that time.
The town had less than 400 structures and few fires that needed that vehicle, so the original mileage was quite low and the washer could have been original.
Your bulb and parts are reproduction. That brass milled cage is modern, Ford wouldn't have milled a brass cage.
Here is the factory Ford '26-'27 sediment bulb with Factory #2053 on the bowl fitting. The Part # of the complete assembly is 2902C
I would take it off, and show the screen, but for this one made the factory lever shutoff 'fixed' in 'open' position, as it was weeping. Installed a new cutoff for the gas line to the carb at the bowl. So can only open the drain plug, but would have to drain the whole gas tank to then remove the nut to show the filter!
That modern replacement offered by vendors for the screen, that is a Model A part, the coil spring is Model A as the bowl on the early Model A's is smaller. Guess you can fit the Model A coil spring and screen to the Model T bowl but have never done that. Have always just repaired the old screen by making a mandrel, wrapping it with brass wire cloth (screen) and re-soldering it to the factory brass cap. (But, never kept photos of my rework on the original Ford screen)
Snyder's Model A
Lang's Model T
(Message edited by Dan_Treace on January 23, 2017)
To add another view.
Comparison of the reproduction bowl to the original, lots of difference.
Thanks for the help Dan Looks like Martynn will make just a few change .
I think the raised triangle is a diamond representing Diamond Manufacturing. Many Model T parts have Diamond Manufacturing stamped on them or just the logo. I don't know if it was a separate manufacturer or a subsidiary of Ford?
This doesn't make a difference to the diagram because it's not shown but the RHD sediment bulb has the outlet on the opposite side, part number 2902CR.
Well somethings screwy that's for sure...the vendors replacement filter doesn't come with a cage at all, just the nipple with the screen soldered to it. May have been an after market filter or someones better idea, whatever it is, it's not from any of the vendors nor did I have one on my Model A all those many years ago.
Sooo, what's the verdict here? Is it just another manufacturers part but is from 1926-27 or is it something a bit later?
The brass cage thing is modern, isn't a Ford part from the T days.
The replacement vendor filter you posted, is like the original filter. Open ended wire mesh cylinder soldered at the opposite end onto a metal cap with nipple like hole.
Martin, why does your drawing show 2 different parts w/the # 2902C?
Ok, how's this then, somebody mentioned there was a leather washer in there instead of the supplied spring provided by the vendors.
The drawing you have posted is correct if you remove the leather washer from the top of the filter. The top of the filter just fits into the recess on the inside of the body - no washer or gasket there. I've also never seen the cage around the filter - don't know what that is.
The replacement filter is actually a Model A part. The Model A sediment bowl is similar to the Model T one. If I remember right, the Model A sediment bowl doesn't have the shutoff valve. The Model T doesn't use the spring but the filter screen and the gasket are the same.
David, thanks, that's the clearest answer I've gotten so far. I put the leather washer is because James mentioned that he found one inside a bowl.
And I could see how some tension on the top of the filter would hold it really good against the bottom nut.
But maybe that's not necessary...sometimes I tend to over think things a bit too much.
Great job Martin. The work you are doing is very helpful. Because it is so delicate, you don't need any tension at all to hold the strainer in place. In fact, any tension, to speak of, will collapse the bottom of the strainer, decreasing its' effectiveness and possibly allowing unfiltered gas under the collapsed bottom. The strainer is the precise height of the distance between the upper hole and the nut, so that it stays in place on its' own without any help from a tension spring. Jim Patrick
( O.T. ) " In case this offends anyone "
It is not my intention to hijack this thread with Model A " STUFF " but to back up Dave's reference to the Model A not having a shut off valve. The Model A shut off valve is on the outlet of the Gas Tank.
Here are the two versions that were used before Ford went over to the Glass Bowl type. The images are cropped from the Model A Restoration Guidelines & Judging Standards.
Best regards, John Page, Australia.
On my Model it was right under the tank on the inside of the car...I used to shut off the gas everytime I parked my car. Which came in handy one night when a couple of twits tried to steal my car and they couldn't get it to run (they also didn't know you had to unlock the ignition too). But they ran just fine when I came out and caught em...can't say I'm the scariest thing in the world, but I'm sure that side by I was carrying probably did the trick.