To remove the engine from my 1919 roadster, should I buy one of eye bolts that just screw into one of the spark plug holes, or should I use a nylon strap around the engine? Hogshead need to be removed?? I have the book, but can't find it.
Jonathan, both would work. Hogshead doesn't necessarily have to be removed. I never have. But I do use one of those "tipping" devices attached to my engine puller, it has 4 attachment points that I feel much better about. Sometimes I put a strap around the engine also if I'm feeling a bit uneasy.
I need to make one of those wooden shipping crates. Where is the best place to support the engine in the crate? Are there plans to build a wooden crate for the engine? Nervous!
Make the crate so that it supports the engine the way it is supported in the car, at the front pan snout and rear pan ears.
I've always hated the idea of putting all that weight on one spark pug hole. I use chain attached with a couple of bolts through the head. I think a strap would be OK too. The center of gravity is between #3 and #4. No need to remove the hogshead. Raise the engine as you slide it forward, tilting the pedals back far enough to clear the firewall. On my 1915 I raise the front of the body off the frame a couple of inches and set it on a pair of 2x4 blocks, and that makes it an easy job. On my 1923 I don't have to raise the body. I don't know about 1919.
Blocks under body, steering column pulled back.
Pedals tilt back to clear the firewall.
Tim posts faster than I do. I like that adjustable four point support.
I used a nylon strap when I pulled my engine a while back. Used a load leveler and it worked very well. Don't forget to remove the wishbone from the crankcase before trying to pull the engine (don't ask...)
Zach, good reminder on the wishbone. I think we've all been there! Yeh, don't ask!! ha ha.
Jonathan, I'll pm you about crate dimensions.
Steve, yep it's really nice to work with no matter whether the car has the firewall attached or not too. Got it from Harbor Freight.
Yep. What everyone said.
The balance point is between 3&4
We used nylon straps and had to raise the body on our 19 hack.
Tim's motor rack is perfect because there is space under the sides for the leg of the hoist.
I put castors on mine so I could easily move it around the garage.
I've always used the Stevens tool installed in #3 plug. Never a problem, balances perfectly when installing or removing any T engine. Repros are available from any of the T part sellers. Originals are quite common on eBay and at swap meets for about the same price.
Another method !
I found that using a similar leveler (engine tipper) on my '27 you have to be very careful as the bolt on the rear end tends to run into the firewall whilst tipping / untipping. If you have paint on the firewall it is a goner!
I have a three legged chain fall. Two 3/8" bolts are welded into the back two legs. One goes through the LH rear corner hogshead to pan bolt hole, the second in the same position on the RH side or one further back on a starter engine, and the third leg is bolted to one of the water outlet holes on the front of the head. The chain lengths are set so the engine comes out at the required angle.
I have used a load leveller, but it is an unnecessary complication with my chains. I feel much safer this way than using just one spark plug hole for the lift.
Allan from down under.