Greetings, I have acquired a non running 1916 runabout with a seized engine. The story I got from the second owner is that it was a very low mileage vehicle that had been parked in the early 20's. they purchased it from the original owner in the mid 50's. They "went thru the engine" painted the body and re upholstered the seat and top. The son stated that besides that, a new gas tank and dust shields were the only thing they changed. The last time it had ran was in the early 70's.
I have removed the head and found some stuck valves and since freed the engine. From what I can tell, 2 valves had been replaced. The cylinder walls are streaky black, but very smooth with no ridge at the top. the cylinders appear "to me" to be original. I attempted to slide a .020 over compression ring into said cylinder, but it was slightly to large. The block number places it around early Feb. 1916. It has a Kingston L 4 carb. which indicates possible that it saw some attention later than the early 20's. I pulled the top cover of the transmission off, and everything looks beautiful, albeit, to my untrained eye. My plan is to reseat the valves, change fluids, regrease and clean carb. the gas tank is new, from the 50's and it will have to be installed. I would appreciate any thoughts before I get to far ahead.
I have space in my shop. Just say the word and I'll get it out of there for you.
Here's a checklist for a car that hasn't run for years, but from your description I expect you won't need a lot of it.
Robert, I know of valves that stuck in rebuilt engines that had not been run much. If it was mine I wouldn't be afraid to run it as is. Lots of oil and easy going at first is good. Diagnosing any strange noises would be in order although Model T's often have strange noises. T's are always a risk and if a complete tear down would make you more comfortable, by all means do it.
Just my 2 cents worth. Others will have their opinions.
Lets see it
Change out those valves, very likely to be the two-piece valves that have a tendency to become separate pieces and make a mess of things.
Fellows! Robert did not tell you or mention my name that IIIIIIIIIIII helped him out. I/WE got the seized up engine freed up. The several of the Valves were stuck in the guides and after some tapping and
WD 40 was able to crank the engine over. The streaks in the cylinder was is just discoloration from setting a long time and then having like carb and wd40 poured or sprayed in the cylinders. The one valve we took out looked good and I think a good cleaning of the valves and lapping them in should be o.k. He was told the car did not have many miles on it when it was shut down and put in storage. the paint looks good and the seat material needs to be replaced , because of wear and color. The car in general is about 8 or 9.
Robert has a really nice Couplet and just a bit of tuning and detail work and he will have a great car to run around in.
Richard the steering on Roberts Couplet has not more then one inch of free play at the the steering wheel. the spindle bolts felt good, and he will need some flip top oilers and grease in several spots. Could not for sure tell if it had the easy change bands or the old style, the pedal seemed to move about the right distance. In my opinion I think maybe as I stated above he might just lap the valves and button it up and go for ti. He said he was going to bring the coils over and we would do a test and see what they show for amps.
Great looking car.
Dave: ONe piece vales. Well the first one was one piece. I showed him how to remove them and DON'T loose any of the pins. I also suggested on lapping them in, since they have been setting for 45 years. There was some carbon in the top of the head and very little on the piston tops.
Many thanks to Bill D. for his help and knowledge, sorry about the omission, he helped answer my first 101 questions as well his invaluable knowledge that only comes with experience. Trying to upload pictures.
Headlight lens ID ???
The lens is either aftermarket or from some other make of car. Definitely not Ford. 1916 Ford lenses are flat plate glass.
Robert, after looking at the pictures I agree with Burger. You should let someone take that off your hands so you become affected with a mental disorder that will cause you to want another. Trust me, this is an addiction that resists any family intervention.
What a great car. Tim
Rather "rare" electric side lights also ! Nice find !
Yesterday when I was there he did not seem as though the fever had hit him yet, however there was a bit of confusion as though it the affliction was there but IHMO think it will set in shortly.
Next I saw that he had taken out another valve, so that means he is on his way. If he gets all the valves out he may or should bring them up and we will clean them up and then he can do a lapping on them and he will be clo0ser to getting the engine fired up.
Bob if you read this post get the valves out and we will clean them and get it going.
Also rather rare is the brass bell on the magneto horn. Very few of those were produced before they went to the plain steel, non flared type.
Allan from down under.
Robert: you have a prized car, and you see the comments you are getting on the Forum!!!!!!!!!
The Brass bell on his horn re-assures me on my Dec '15 touring, which has a Brassco horn, also with a brass bell that shows no signs of ever being painted; the rest of the horn has solid original-looking paint. My horn's bell is not smoothly turned, it's very narrow flat sections; would be very difficult to repair if it were ever dented.
Thank you gentlemen for your inputs. 6 of the 8 valves appear to be the 2 piece variety, they also look to have been never ground before, the 2 replacement valves have weak springs at 19, 20 lbs. I think for the time being I'm going to replace 2 springs and do a light lapping? I checked the horn and it is a Brassco, I thought for a 1916 it was supposed to be painted black. My tail light is also an E and J #6 with a round insert, also not all black. My plan for the vehicle is to keep it as original as possible for the year, 1916, and leaving the 1956 paint as is.
For the price of them, a set of new valves and a fresh hand cut on the seats would seem in order, since you have it apart anyway.
I kind of like the red interior and wheel combo. I really like the electric cowl lights. Nice car indeed.
Ditto on the valve job, since it's already apart. Those 2-piece valves can destroy your engine if they come apart. BTW, the tail lamp should be a #9, not a #6. Maybe you were looking at it upside-down?
That was my original comment, two-piece valves like to become "disconnected pieces" and mess other things up--sometimes quite badly.
What a cutey and it looks great!
Those head lamp lenses make it look as if the little Ford is just bedazzled. :-)
That red interior... Va va voom! It really offsets the black body nicely. I like! I've contemplated doing the same...in my Crappy '24.
Heck, "I'M" anxious for your first start ups and drives.
Bill Duggar came over yesterday and after about 5 minutes she fired up for the first time in 45 years. Seems to be a strong runner. Radiator is leaking at top inlet, so I'll pull it back out and have it repaired, unpressurized check afterwards. I'm am learning, doing lots of reading on the forums OT. Today working on adjusting hand brake, does not work, so hoping for an easy adjustment will fix that.
I have looked over the body and frame for clues on were this was T was built, but have only found a metal plate with 8 or 6 space 16 space 196383. 6 16 19383. This is located on the front top wood seat rail. Any ideas on the meaning? Other places to look that are not the obvious.
r/s Bob. I'm unable to upload a picture at this time.
Don't know how I missed this first time around but what an awesome transitional roadster.
June 1916 date on body followed by body serial number.
Doubt if it is August 1916 - that would be the 1917 model year.
Robert, the brass top and the plated brass 'diver's helmet' type reflector in your tail light are typical 1915 items. The lights became cheaper all steel items in 1916 I believe. You should be able to make money on a swap deal, as the brass trimmed items are much more scarce.
Allan from down under.