Before I get "scolded", yes, I do have the MTFCA carb manual on order . . . it just hasn't come yet.
I have a "two-screw" Holley on my '13, it has been running, but now Liz is down for R&R, I'm fiddling and finding things I could improve.
The inlet needle is a viton-tip aluminum "something" that has been cobbled to work with a wire link like a lawnmower carb, and a connection soldered to the brass float. I have no idea what it is. It does seem to seat, but is quite worn.
In the past, I've been pretty familiar with the later "three screw" Holleys (pat. 1914) -
Question, what if any parts do the two share ?
Question, the mixture adjusting needle shows a little wear, no ridge. How critical is angle and surfaces on the needle and seat ?
Question, if I just put it back together and run it "as is", would it be inadvisable to "dip" it and clean it up, since I can't seem to be able to remove the venturi.
Question, is the "year appropriate" Kingston a better carb ? Is the later '14-'20 "three-screw" a better carb ?
Thanks for your help and suggestions !
We had an old T guy in our club that ran a 2 screw. He said it ran just fine and was one of his favorite carbs for a T. I can't say how many parts were shared with a 3 screw.
I ran my '13 for years on the two screw carb. I don't think many (if any) parts interchange with later or earlier Holleys. The Kingston 4 ball is another carburetor that works fine if you have one that is not totally worn out. Like the Holley 2 screw it originally had a cork float, which is not ideal in terms of reliability with today's crappy gasoline.
I recommend that you find a good old Holley NH from 1920 - 25. Hang the brass carburetor on a nail somewhere that it looks good and install it only if needed for judging.