I've cleaned the plugs an changed the oil in my Touring.
(It's the only means of transportation I have right now and without side curtains it's a cold ride at 19*)
The '22 Coupe is still in storage at a friends house I haven't had time to go get it since I moved...boy I would like that Coupe in this weather!
I haven't been doing much on the T's. i have been doing a little painting.
Cotter pinned all the pan bolts, installed the crank pulley and the external oil line, and put on the water inlet.
WOW! That's amazing...You sit in that tiny little studio and produce all those wonderful painting and drawings of yours! (I see someone left you a $0.27 tip.)
Yes Dennis, that is plenty of room. I'm quite short. Painting is a good outlet.
Pluggin' away on the 23 Runabout...
I am getting close to being ready for paint.
On a rare nice Saturday afternoon I took my '23 touring to visit my 93 year old uncle.
Built this box and re-built the coils for it. Heinze, 1908 Model S. The original was interesting as it was a replacement box built by Heinze in 1914 or '15. It had a lot of features used on Heinze-built coils for the T after standardization.
I have been working on my T Snowmobile, hoping to have it trail ready for the antique run on the 18th.
That is beyond gorgeous. I try to "do a good job" on the things I make or fix, but stellar examples such as yours causes me to hesitate showing my meager (in comparison) efforts.
Rich, as always, I love the details you include... in your cars, paintings, and this little diorama. It may be a great outlet, but I love that tiny overloaded outlet!
I think that photo of Steve above would make a great painting for you!
I'm detailing the '26 roadster for a big car show in Lockhart, TX tomorrow. It's primarily a hot rod show but they've included an 'Antique' class. I won that class last year with a '29 A open pickup. 40,000 visitors are expected in this quaint little town of 13,000.
Got the Warford 6 speed installed and rear end put back in. Test ran on jack stands. It's does whine some! Still have to make clamps for the cross brace and install the wheels, brake rods and top up the Warford and rear end. Then it's time for a test drive.
Where the radius rods pass under the exhaust pipe, just sitting, there is very little clearance between the two. Things people really don't talk about when installing, the interference between the exhaust pipe, cross brace and radius rods also having to move the sediment bowl over 2 inches to the passenger side. I would have been a little stuck on the sediment bowl if I had not gotten the install instructions from Lang's, two 1/2" street els(sp) did the trick.
Mark - you might recall on your previous Warford thread, I did mention that the stock position sediment bulb has to be relocated.
New friction shocks and panhard bars for a smoother ride and better cornering. Just need to paint.
First few days it was a double oval stack coil ring I was rebuilding.
Steve, sorry I missed that. Try and read as much as I can but still miss things. Can you post a link so I can go back and re-read it?
Re; that tiny overloaded outlet! Looks to me you might have some current leakage issues!
Taking out slack from the steering and adjusting the rod bearings.
I added an auxiliary period brake light to my Model T. I also got my running board spotlight to work properly.
Gee, I thought picking up a large Maple board to make Barney's top bows was a big thing to do this early in the year. Was part of an organ chest support, so I'm combining two hobbies into one! Now to get time to turn it into three bow centers.
Pouring rain right now with high winds; had a lightning storm last night that woke me up out of a sound sleep. Less than a second between flash and boom--too close for comfort! Between the flashes, the booms, and the wind gusts and rain pelting, it was a bit difficult to go back to sleep!
I ended up doing some unplanned Bendix repair work on Betsy, my 1924 cut-off touring, today.
I hardly ever use the starter (I prefer to hand crank), but today when I used the starter the engine turned once, then the starter just freewheeled with no Bendix engagement with the ring gear.
Turned out there was no Bendix key on the starter shaft, the little nub on the end of the rear Bendix spring retainer bolt was taking full starter torque and finally decided to shear off.
I should have known something was up months ago, when a Bendix key came out with the oil on my last oil change (Ya think?).
Anyway, pulled the Bendix out, and sure enough, no key. I got the key that fell out months ago and trial fitted it on the starter shaft, it fit fine.
Then, I tried it on the Bendix drive head, and it didn't fit - there was a burr in the drive head keyway. A little work with a needle file fixed that, and the Bendix went back together easily - I was very careful to make sure that the key stayed in position on the shaft when I slid the drive head on this time!
What I think happened is that the last time I installed the Bendix, the burr on the drive head pushed the key out of the starter shaft slot as I slid the drive head on - somehow, I didn't notice it at the time. The key fell to the bottom of the pan and subsequently came out in the next oil change. The starter worked fine (for a while) because the nub on the end of the rear spring retainer bolt was taking all of the starter torque and doing the job of the key.
Moral of the story - check the fit of all parts when they're on the bench before you try to assemble everything for good!
Still working on my 26 Tudor. A little everything from finishing the roof, hidem welt, and gutters to trying to make it run right. That includes carb overhaul, generator work, timer, coils, etc. I did have it out of the shop for the first time in 25 years since I owned it and probably ran for the first time in 60 or so years. Had fun with it last weekend in the snow driving it around and getting used to the pedals and other controls.
Bill, thank you for the kind words, but please don't ever be ashamed of what you can do. Early coils are my "thing" so to speak but if you could see my hamfisted attempts at some of the other aspects of Model T restoration you'd fall over laughing. That's why trades are so much fun!
I just got back from my first test drive with the Warford. Of course it's Oregon, so it was done in the rain. I have the brochure but I still even after reading it, wanted to mix up under and direct drive when shifting, that will get sorted out. Driving around town, need more open less traffic to learn shifting on the fly! Grinding gears is not my choice. Guess I'll learn how to control the gas with my right hand and shift with my left. Man it's cramped for right foot space with the gear shift lever sticking up there. After getting the wheels on the ground after my first run, I can live with it's whine. The cluster gear came from another transmission so they have to learn to work together.
I just start to build up an other Engine.
Here the picture , I hope
I cranked mine for the first time today since the motor was rebuilt . I can start it with the starter and it runs on BAT or MAG. It is too tight to hand crank though. Hopefully, after it "loosens up" a bit then I can hand crank it.
Congratulations, Tommy! It will loosen up over time.
RE shifting with left hand, nope! Not going to happen. LOL
We got a foot of new snow over night so I spent the day digging the shop out so I could continue pulling the motor on my 27 Tudor. Looking forward to another foot and a half by Monday.
Seth- just a suggestion- you really want to get that panhard rod as level (parallel to the ground) as possible. With it on an angle like that, it will push the chassis sideways when you hit a bump.
Started removing the later fenders for the upcoming runabout body transfer. Running boards and splash aprons next. Rags to remind me of exposed fender irons. Go Pats!
How did i miss this post
Not mine but dropped a fresh Scat crank engine in this '13 Touring & really attempting to finish up the year old Fronty Scat crank engine (thanks to Mike B.) in the back ground !
Kind of like the old cobbler - everyone else has good shoes but I got holes in mine ! If'n I don't get the wife's Fire Chief's rig painted Red this year - I might have a garage fire !!!!
Too busy with a trade show in SanDiego followed by a trip to Germany and another to Mexico.
March might allow a bit of time for the T.
I had three RB tire carriers in stock and just shipped the last one out Sat. morning.Yesterday,I cut metal for 5 more,and today I finished up the restoration on four speedometer swivels.
Seth, Dan M. beat me to it, but I agree with him. The panhard bar needs to be as level to the ground as possible. A big bump will cause, "bump steer". I have panhard bars on my hot rod Model A pk. It was originally at about 1/2 the angle yours is. At speed and hitting a bump was a "bad feeling" to the steering. I modified the brackets where the rods run level with the axles and it works perfect now. ZOOM ZOOM and be safe ....
Its interesting to me how many more speedsters there are as original T parts become more hard to find and costly along with slower stock Ts with todays traffic.
I got the steering column back in the '10 today. Went for a drive, this thing is really running great!
Royce, that's great, congratulations!
Seth, do some research on the web on front panhard bars and their effect on the location of the front roll center. I think you'll find that to bring the panhard bar closer to level at ride height, you'll want to lower the frame mounted end and leave the axle mounted end where it is. This will result in the frame mount being cantilevered pretty far down below the frame, so whatever structure you fabricate to achieve that will have to be pretty beefy so that it doesn't get torn loose from the frame.
Mounted and installed Buffalo wires and Firestones on my 1913 Runabout
Finally finished the headlamp repair from the chicken killer.
For those of you who don't know the story...
: ^ )
RV - What is the "stuff" on the back of your coilbox and what purpose does it serve?
Oh, my back! Oy!
Yesterday and today I've been moving parts out of my shop and over into the barn so I'll have room to put the engine back in my roadster. It seems one of the engine blocks (or maybe all of them) got to my back.
Steve, did you ever find a good reverse drum for your touring car?
I did. The engine is at Mike's in Tulsa. As soon as I have this engine stand free so I can bring it home, I'll contact him and we'll finish it up.
Ok, thanks everyone for panhard bar input. Have moved frame side of mount lower. Front bar is 30.5" long and with new lower mount only 3" higher on frame side. Arctan of 3 / 30.5 is 5.6 degrees. 30.5 x cos(5.6) is 30.354". So at extreme travel of front suspension I have .146" of lateral movement and more likely to be half that (.073") or less except in the most severe occasions. Will just have to drive it and see how it feels.
Will modify rear panhard bar to reduce angle tomorrow and look to get something similar to the front.
Pressed in new brass bushings for the front spindle: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/722753.jpg
Separated the body and frame
Im still working on the rear end rebuild but it has been 2 steps forward and 1 step back all the way. I am confident i can now assymble this thing blind as many times as ive had to take it apart and sand and file things to get adjustment just right.
Whilemwaiting on parts I disassembled, cleaned, and painted the rear leaf spring. It turned out nice.
Dan B, that stuff is a putty that covers the sunken wires and machine screw heads as Heinze did originally on this style box. It was supposed to keep water and other crud out. It did the job but all the original putty I've seen is rock hard and cracked all over, so I use modern non-hardening putty which should last indefinitely.
Not my T project ...BUT ...of interest since it is both an early open valve engine and a Scat crankshaft install ...first , regarding the original IRON bearings in the motor block ...there was some debate in an earlier posting about the need to preserve the original iron bearings and their fitness for this purpose ...these bearings were worn and tapered and the center main was .003 eccentric with relation to the front and rear mains ...also the rear was galled slightly and had a .002 taper , being larger in the front ...and YES , these iron bearings could have been bored larger and an original crank built up or a Scat crank could have been purchased with larger than standard diameter bearings ...the choice was made to bore the iron block bearings and re-Babbitt block and caps ...also ...this is the 4th. Scat crankshaft I have installed ...I would give an A+ to the manufacturer regarding quality of workmanship and apparent material ...I have added 4 photos of this operation ...always an optimist...Gene French
I got the engine back in the runabout, torqued the head, and got started installing all the various small parts and fasteners.
Seth, we achieved much the same effect as a panhard bar by by locking the spring shackle on one side. We made a pair of triangular plates. These were drilled to fit a bolt through the spring eye and the perch. The third bolt is the bolt through the keeper on the spring. This mod will allow the other end of the spring to oscilate as usual, but the lock on the other side prevents the car swaying on the spring.
It worked well on the rear, but when I tidied up the one my son made for the front, it developed the shimmy often felt with worn front ends. He had the last laugh. His more crude lock clamped around the axle rather than the spring clamp worked perfectly.
IMHO it looks a much neater solution. Perhaps you could try it on the rear and see how it works for you.
Allan from down under.
Steve, I sure hope that the runabout engine is in there to stay this time!
Engine turned the instrument panel for the speedster
I have a 1914 with no name headlights. Can someone tell me why there is no sign of any name on my headlights?
Ed it's entirely possible the name was polished off over the years. My Corcoran headlamp name is just barely legible.
Surprised to see that you put the dimple in the back panel of the NRS coil boxes. Most well used NRS coil boxes have them, but I always assumed they were beat into there by loose hood stay rods that worked back and forth. Some boxes, as I'm sure you've seen, have actual holes beat through them. Did Heinz put a dimple there from new??
Today I put on a pair of large Winkley oilers on my kingpins.
: ^ )
Got my rebuilt coils back from he Coil Doctor and I'm most of the way through installing a new wiring harness on the 24 Runabout. Just waiting on the switch harness to come so I can finish. Even with the old switch harness, I'm impressed with how much better it starts and runs (on both battery and mag).
Nothing great worked 72 hours this week but did find time to buy 8 coils and a nice 1906 spot light for my Rpu. Also got my rebuilt 26 NH back and got my intake powder coated and made another langs order Changing out a vaporizer to a nh system this weekend. Tim
Replaced (New) the steering shaft 5:1, new bushings in the lower steering support and bored/bushed the steering cover in our 13 touring.
An item of interest was that my old 5:1 gears fit the pins on the new steering shaft without any modifications. Was told the pins used in the new shaft were larger and would not fit the original 5:1 gears.....this turned out to be false....at least for my set up. Also put a grease fitting on the steering support under side so the lower bushing will get lubed. Ford did not provide provisions for getting the lower bushing lubed....only the top bushing was lubed with a grease cup.
Took time out from car assembly to make a pair of manifold installing clamps. It probably would have been faster to drive to the juco and use one of the Bridgeports, but I "machined" them with a grinder and a wire wheel.
Just gunned up the War Wagon. .30 cal Browning M1917 and wooden ammo box on the mount. Lee Medfords on the splash shields and a Colt M1911 in the holster.
Ready for the next Homeowners Association meeting.
Time to shcllac, prime and paint all the wood OD green.
Maybe add some bayonets in scabbards too
For the display? Or, for the neighbors? As I learned when I restored my WWII jeep, those that bitch the most, want the first ride.
I spent the afternoon on 1915 runabout assembly. Installed the radiator and support rod, exhaust pipe, fuel line, carburetor, hood shelves and clips, engine pans, coil box and timer harness, and connected the steering. I'm heading down the reassembly home stretch.
Test drove! WOOOOO new 3:1 Ruckstell rear end and Chicago transmission plus new friction shocks and panhard bars. It's like a whole new smoother riding and RIDICULOUSLY fast car. Friction shocks are a MUST for any speedster as far as I'm concerned now. Shoot!
OT, but I'm rebuilding a spare Saginaw power steering pump for my 1971 Plymouth GTX.
Had the time of my life today. I finally got the skies I bought almost to years ago and restored onto the doodlebug. Being they were homemade, I was very unsure on how they would work. They worked great! Only things I would change would be 5:1 steering (as suggested to me by Zac) and a little taller skeg on the bottom---say from the current 1/4" tall to a 3/8" or 1/2" tall one. Zac, THANK YOU so much for helping me restore these skis!
I have a very small yard (lot size is 50'x200'), but my neighbor owns the next two houses over so I did manage to get it in high gear between the three yards. What a hoot! and more snow predicted tomorrow...Never been so excited about snow. Plowing snow with this was fun, but with the skis, this is awesome!!