After getting the front bearings of my '27 Touring fixed up last weekend, I took on the rear end this weekend. Pulled driver's side rear wheel and hub was full of thin, black grease. Emergency brake lining was covered in baked on grease. Clear signs it needs some work. Now setting out to take care of business and have a couple questions, so figured I'd come here for sage wisdom.
Q1: The bearing is stuck. I can't get it out. I used needle nose in the bearing holes and am able to spin it, albeit it's pretty tough to spin. The question is, how the heck to I get the bearing out. I tried fashioning a hook with a coat hangar and stuck it in the little hole in the sleeve to hook the bearing, but when I pull, the hangar straightens out and the bearing stays put. It's pretty stuck.
Q2: What type of bearing grease do I use on the new bearing? I have a LOT of red bearing grease from my front end work...will that work on the rear bearings? I watched Steve Jelfs' video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ&list=UUFVx528ORtpDgCPJXbFCA6w) and he seems to be using a light colored grease.
Q3: What type of sealant do I use on the new neoprene inner seal? Steve used a black substance from what looked like a Permatex tube, but I couldn't see the name.
Q4: What else do I need to know? Something that might have caught the veterans here off guard.
I use a Snap On fitter pin removal tool to pull wheel bearings.
Red grease is fine for those bearings.
I never use any sealant on axle seals.
Royce, did you mean to say a "Cotter Pin" Removal Tool? Cannot google up a "fitter pin". Thanks.
Some times the bearing wears a lip around the end and you have to get the bearing rollers over the lip before it will come out.
You might have to twist, pull and jiggle the axle at the same time. The new style inner seals don't really need any sealer, they get smooshed between the sleeve and the rivet ring that is just past them. Red works.
Ah, thanks all. I appreciate the advice!
While the seals may be fine without adding any sealant, my theory is that a little bit of Ultra Black can't hurt.
It appears that something was scrubbing on the bearing and may have distorted it. What condition was the washer, felt and cap. Was the hub assembly pressing up against it.
Raymond, I found that running the axle nut back on I could use a wrench to turn the axle while I hooked the bearing with a coat hanger. Made it come out a lot easier this way. Jim
Get help. Have that helper take the axle weight off the bearing. Chances are it's in a wear groove on the sleeve which is usually on the upper half.
Picture of a cotter pin removal tool:
If you have access to a welder, if all else fails, bend a piece of stock into a u shape long enough to clear the axle end and tack to each side of the bearing cage. Use this as a handle to shake, rattle and roll or pull the offending bearing out. KGB
OK, update and new questions. Much thanks for the tip on the cotter pin removal tool (CPRT). After breaking the tip off my brand new CPRT and bending the tip of my needle nose pliers, I finally was able to get a flathead screwdriver behind the end of the bearing while spinning the wheel far enough to get after in with channel lock pliers. 45 mins of spin/twist/pull, the bearing finally came. It was almost like it had been glued in there the grease was so funky. The sleeve was tough also, but I won!!
So, next round of questions.
1) The new bearing has fewer rollers. Is that a problem? Will I feel it while driving?
(Old Bearing...the bad spots are from the channel locks)
2) Any tips to get the inner seal out? It appears to be rubber or neoprene (definitely not felt or leather). How do I get after it?
I like how the new seal is built...neoprene with steel backing for the new bearing to travel on (though I now wonder how I'll get IT out when the time comes.)
Appreciate any inputs!
David, the felt was crushed pretty tight. The washer between the felt and the bearing had wear marks where the bearing and the washer met. Figured that was normal, but perhaps the cap was too tight?
James, good tip on running the nut back up to be able to spin the axle. It was very "influential".
Mark, you called it...the old sleeve had grooves. Probably why it was such a bear to work out. That and the glue-like grease.
Steve, I have my Ultra Black handy.
Don't use the new bearings. Get good used original one's only; especially on the outer part of the axle.
Andy is right, all those new bearings are good for is to throw at dogs. They and the sleeves they come with will wear out in no time and ruin your axle shaft. Find a used sleeve and roller that mikes out good and use it.
The new ones are bad news - they're not engineered like Ford original Hyatts.
Original rollers were made out of spring steel in a spiral, making the bearing rollers slightly flexible. The stiff repro rollers can't flex as they should.
Maybe your old bearing isn't really bad? Check the cage by twisting the ends in opposite directions. If stiff, inspect the roller surfaces - shouldn't start to flake and they should measure minimun about 0.496" in diameter. If yours aren't good enough to reuse, good originals should be easy enough to find - like at the Chickasha swap in March or with a classified ad here.
Use the modern neoprene seals on the inside of the new sleeves. Check the axle for damages. Has the break prone original babbitt thrust washers been replaced inside the differential?
Roger, Everything looks good on the old bearing except for where the teeth of the channel lock pliers ate at them pretty good (see picture above) and I bent the end when prying on it to get the bearing out.
The bent end should be able to bend back fairly easy - and the damage from the pliers isn't really significant. If the cages are stiff, you'll be fine using the bearings. If there are ridges from wear in the outer sleeves, it's best to replace them. The repro sleeves should work.
Measure the roller diameters accurately, like with a micrometer or good calipers, and let us know what you find.