O.K. fella's/ladies - I going to assume some of you have either replaced the gas tank with the new repro's available and the same with the repro brass sediment bulbs - my question is: Have any of you run into the issue of the new sediment bulb threads "bottoming" out in a new tank as in completely ?
Clearly, the bulb won't seal & will not go around further to the correct position/direction that it needs to be. This isn't the first time I've run into this problem. I'm not needing "fix it" ideas - just the facts if you've encountered this particular issue.
Yup, I bought a new tank for the Centerdoor. I then ordered a new sediment bulb and the threads were sloppy as could be. I ended up using JB Weld and letting it cure for most of the winter now. I'm hoping this cures the problem but its very frustrating to spend that kind of money and something as simple as matching the fittings doesn't come close.
That is why I'm attempting to remedy this situation. Thanks for responding to my query !
I happen to have a NOS iron sediment bulb so I'm headed out to the shop now to verify what's amiss - the new tank fitting or the size of the 1/2" pipe thread on the new sediment bulb !
If you're looking for utility and not necessarily concerned about "original," I highly recommend you go to Tractor Supply and get a sediment bulb/valve for a Ford 8N or 9N tractor.
It's got a glass bowl so you can see what it's caught, and a 2-step shutoff. Normally (open one turn) it sucks from about an inch above the bottom of the tank. But if you run out, open it another 2 - 3 turns, and you get that last inch. It has a round screen inside the tank. It runs less than $20 as I remember.
Oops! I just checked the Tractor Supply website. The item number is Tisco Sediment Bowl Assembly, 2NAA9155B, and the price is $29.99.
Thanks for the info, Peter - I'm currently restoring a '13 Touring for a fellow.
Never been a fan of a "glass bowl" hanging out under the T - been known to do a "little" gravel - I believe the best spot for that type would be under the hood somewhere.
Well, I took a genuine NOS Ford script, iron sediment bulb into the new, round repro gas tank and IT also bottomed out - bummer !!! To verify my findings, I took the repro bulb & screwed it into two original T gas tanks - it appeared the new bulb WOULD take hold in the originals.
My conclusion is the "outlet fitting" soldered into the bottoms of the new repro gas tanks is threaded in too deeply, apparently, OR the manufacturer of that fitting - not the tank manufacturer has an "issue" !
Not "bad-mouthing" anyone here as I for one (and many others I know) is sincerely grateful for even producing parts for us folks ! BUT it would be pretty nice to "plug & play" !
The new tank I got from Birdhaven about a year and a half ago took an original sediment bulb with no trouble. Different manufacturer? Dunno.
I believe there is only one guy making gas tanks, so he should be advised that the part he's using has a problem. I'm sure he'd want to correct it.
It was suggested today to melt a coat of solder on the threads. I have the same issue with my original tank, had to really cram it in the worn bung threads to get it even close the the correct direction and seal.
(Message edited by redmodelt on February 07, 2017)
I purchased a new tank and sediment bowl for my 1910.
The sediment bowl thread was tapered (assumed NPT) and just gave it a light coat of the Locktite "liquid thread tape"
It never bottomed out but just tightened up on the taper and turned it a bit more till the outlet lined up with the fuel line.
No leaks or issues with either parts for me
When I did my '25 pu 8 years ago the original tank and sediment bulb were of no possible use. I got new ones from Lang's and asked them to make sure the bulb fit snugly in the tank they picked out. They did a good matching job. I'd make that request of your supplier.
I bought a new tank from Bob's on 10/25/16 and a new sediment bulb from Lang's for a car I'm building. They went together with no problem at all. I don't know how long Bob had these tanks in stock, but they were out of stock at other vendors at that time. Maybe the problem is with the newer run of tanks.
As most of you know, I like original Ford parts. There is no question on whether they will work. For my '25, I bought a NOS oval gas tank at Chickasha for $100. No one would touch it! It took about five sediment bulbs, but I finally found one with a good screen. I cleaned it out real good, and haven't a problem. I'm always leery of any reproduction part for good reasons.
There is only the one guy reproducing tanks - he had/has a regular job. I actually spoke to "the gas tank guy" a couple years ago when I had this same problem - something about "the stock of fittings" that had been purchased prior to the original tank guy passed away - sounded a bit "hit & miss" on a real good outlet fitting. Previous one I did do that, Mark - flowed a bit of solder on the new bulb threads.
O.K. - here's what I measured between a NOS bulb & a new brass repro on the widest thread right at the base with my digital caliper:
NOS was 0.8415 - new was 0.8350.
By the way, this new round tank was purchased last fall.