I am considering buying and installing a set of SURE STOP disk brakes on my '23 Touring. Any opinions, thoughts, suggestions or tips on installation would be greatly appreciated.
Bench bleed them, but be prepared to do it again, since some air can get back into the master while you are installing it. To bleed in situ, just use a lever to fully push the plunger all the way into the cylinder, prior to attaching the plunger to the brake pedal.
The set that I received had solid lines from the "T" connection to the calipers. I would replace them with the same length 3/16" flexible lines (from a place like AutoZone). That makes moving the calipers so that the bleeder ports are on the top, much easier.
All-in-all, this is a great product. And like wise old Model T guy told me..."Safety trumps authenticity)
Ditto the above comments, I also recommend them. They work good. Installation was not hard ... just follow the directions. I've had them for 3 or 4 years.
Easy job, took about 8 hours to do. They don't offer them on the Texas T website, but they do have flex lines to the calipers if you ask for them. The steel lines they sent were way too long, I had to purchase shorter lines. They are a pain to bleed. They work great, and the comments I get on them are hilarious. People are dead serious in a parking lot " I didn't know they had disc brakes back then"
I have AC Brakes which looking more accurate than Sure Stop brakes I thought. Both choice are good it is a question of personal choice I think.
Bleeding disk brakes is easy if you remove the caliper and put the bleed hole at the top.
My home built ones take two bolts to remove.
The master cylinder is pumped a few times to get brake fluid and air moving then watching the bleed hole until the bubbles stop keeping an eye on the master cylinder full of brake fluid.
you may have to slightly spread the caliper pads to get the caliper back on.
Two bolts puts one side back on.
Otherwise bench bleeding should work.
You did say you wanted opinions.....
I think disc brakes look WAY out of place on a Model T! I mean WAY!
And before anybody asks, yes I feel the same way about distributors and alternators.
Thank you Hal. I do want opinions and yours and mine are exactly the same. But when I'm out for ice-cream with my grand kids aboard safety is paramount. I won't be making a permanent alteration in any way. If at some point I want to go back to the original operation it can be done. And yes, I have the original timer and 6v generator also. Thanks again.
If one needs to hide the disk brakes for some event or reason, it is fairly easy to remove the wheels and hide the calipers underneath without undoing the brake fluid lines. Then mount another set of wheels and you will look like it was originally.
Installing the Texas T brakes does NOT disable the standard Model T brakes.
Has anyone done tests to see if the disk brakes are any better than the typical aftermarket brakes? I know in reverse they have to be better than the current reproduction RM brakes.
My calipers are 11 3|4 inch diameter you hardly notice them UNLESS you are a T owner. Like Michael says I have saved my fanny more then once and my calipers are much smaller the Texas T that have to be more powerful with the larger diameter.
I can play with my life but do not have any right to play with some one with me besides the dogs deer and elk missed because I have them.
It's not going to be a vintage car anymore once you put disc brakes on it so what's the point?
I put Sure Stop disk brakes on my roadster last winter. Easy job, bleeding was no big deal. They work great in any condition. They do not fade on down hills, work in reverse and work when wet. On the very steep mountain roads I drive I love them. I have two T's with these disk brakes. You still have the Ford service brake set just under the disk brakes and the emergency brake. And talk about drawing interest, young car nuts see that Willwood caliper and have to come over and look it over. Next generation interest?
1. I install a residual pressure valve to maintain pressure to disc so you don’t need to pump the brakes a price around $22 from Wilwood engineering in CA http://www.wilwood.com/
2. Only use synthetic brake fluid – won’t damage your paint, only install on new brake systems, keep you from changing fluid, can’t mix with other brake fluid
3. To bleed brakes – I install a product call “Speed Bleeder” it’s easy to bleed brakes http://speedbleeder.com/
4. Speed bleeder bag & hose combo
a. SB1328 Speed Bleeder QTY 4
SB1428 # 1/4 X 28 1.00, (25.40)
b. SB3824 Speed Bleeder QTY 1
SB3824 # 3/8 X 24 1.29, (32.78)
c. Thread Gauge
d. Total cost $55
5. On my Wilwood Caliper I only bleed the top two on each caliper
I bought my system from the Bill Tharp Colorado Disc Brake Co. which became Sure Stop Disk.
Well I don't have Disk's on my car but which is more important--------Vintage purist or YOUR'S OR SOMEONE ELSE'S LIFE
Just my humble opinion
I have the discs on my car because every way out of the neighborhood I live in involves going down a very steep hill. Four of these hills end at a traffic light or stop sign. Once I leave my neighborhood, I have no choice, it is all 4 lane divided roadways with 45 MPH speed limits. It is also back up hill to go in any direction, so I contend with hills in both directions. For safety I either do what I have to, or leave the car home. Bill's statement above sums up my reasoning for the out of place ugly.
That being said, it is still one axle brakes and tall skinny bias ply tires doing the stopping, you still have to be aware and think ahead.
A close friend's car I drive from time to time has the repro Rockies on it. They stop very well, and we have never experienced any issues with them (yet).
You don't need improved brakes (anything better than Henry's) if you don't encounter other traffic, go down steep hills, or if you simply leave the car in the garage. If you stay abnormally vigilant, even Henry's brakes may do. The Montana 500 folks drive like a bat out of Hades with no aux brakes and some of them drive their cars regularly.
Steve in Kansas and lot of other folks who live rural lives can pick routes where the brakes don't matter much but those of us who live near population centers need to reevaluate. I've put improved mechanical brakes on the rear of my otherwise pretty much stock 26 coupe and went to 4 wheel hydraulic drums on my speedster. I still have to be careful driving both cars because of the idiots around me but they wouldn't leave the garage if all I had were Henry's originals.
AC Bennetts work much better then the new Rockies
BUT way modern city traffic is I sure thinking about them
But once you lock up the wheel your in a slide.
But how are these in city traffic
Are the BENNETS still being made
Bob, AFAIK, yes. Contact info??? Hmm, ask Erik Barrett, he'll probably have it.
OH I wish Ralph Ricks were here to "coach" you guys on brakes. It's the front wheels that need to have the brakes because of the weight transfer off the rear to the front when braking. That's why the rears skid when extreme braking.
Like posted above those "semi disc brakes" are only on the rear which is the least effective place for efficient braking. Even the Bennetts or AC on a small drum can slide the rear wheels in a panic stop. I'm not saying the disc brakes are bad, They're better in every way except appearance. The new ones available would fit a semi truck in my opinion and are designed extremely too large which makes them unsightly and at the wrong end of the car.
I have brakes on all four wheels and don't use my transmission brake. I can stop going up or down a hill in forward or reverse even with the small drum original rear drums.
My rear brakes are copies of the Bennetts and my front brakes are copies of both the Big Four and the McNearny which were originally made in the 20's. I have an equalizer in the cable system so all wheels brake the same. I have never had it pull to one side or the other but could see how it might be possible in certain conditions like ice. I have a double wishbone on my early car.
Yes, disc brakes on all wheels would be better by far and I saw an early touring on the Canada tour with such a set up. the rotors were small and hardly noticeable. The best job I have ever seen. I wish I knew the name of the person who owned the car.
Only a few people notice my front brakes but when they do it's a great talking point about the Ford tranny and braking system along with the many after market parts made for the T.
A few years ago at the Bakersfield swap a guy was showing some 4 wheel brakes that he was going to build and sell but never did see any?
Ralph and a few other T's use the Nash Metro brakes on all wheels which work even better
The only change I would make to a stock Tee would be the brakes, then only if I could go with four wheel brakes. The only advantage I have found with accessory rear brakes is that it takes the braking torque off the drive train. The rear wheels skid just as easily. WE forget that a Model T is just one step beyond the horse drawn buggy. We should drive it as such. I have found that a few simple relearned practices make driving and stopping a Tee more satisfying. #1 Keep your speed within reason. #2 Anticipate stops and reduce speed with the throttle then stop and hold with the brakes.#3 Avoid high speed crowded traffic. If we are going to drive 100 year old technology then we must stop trying to drive our Tee's as if they are 2017 xxxxx''''''s