This weekend I'll be putting some wood stain onto my speedster's firewall.
Right now, and for the next 2 or 3 days, I'm open to suggestions as to what "colour" stain I should use. The car and chassis will be cream with flame red wheels and upholstery.
Presently I'm leaning towards a mid depth, slightly reddish stain. Not too dark and not too light.
I'm thinking about a hard final coating, such as Estapol (don't know if you have it in the USofA or not) as used on flooring.
Your suggestions and advice please.
(Message edited by rob patterson on February 07, 2017)
The wood firewall on my 15 creation is cherry plywood. So a nice cherry stain would bring out the grain and give a reddish tint.
A clear poly or spar varnish would give good protection. Next choice will be level of gloss. satin, semi or glossy.
The perfect match of cherry.
Robert & Ed,
Perfect, Thanks heaps.
Rob, cherry stain maybe a little hard to find out here. You could use Jarrah for the same effect. I mix the stain with the spar varnish so that I can control the depth of colour. Once you have the depth of colour you like, subsequent coats can be straight spar varnish.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I tried using Cherry stain to stain a non cherry board to match the cabinets in my kitchen and it looked nothing like cherry. I finally found the perfect cherry color in a product called Minwax Polyshades, in Pecan. In a nutshell, it is a polyurethane with stain added to it. It comes in a can (liquid) or aerosol. The aerosol goes on much more evenly and leaves no brush marks. You should get two cans just to be sure you don't run out halfway through the job. Jim Patrick
Way too light for a T firewall above.
The Laurel Mountain Forge cherry stain is perfect. Have it on my '13 including the coil box. That little 4 oz. bottle goes forever!
Pay attention to Tim! That is the correct color cherry stain.
Thank You all for your suggestions and advice. Its much appreciated.
Who sells Laurel Mountain Forge stains?
Laurel Mountain, of course.
This weekend I am going to seal by oak body with amber tinted shellac prior to priming and painting OD green. The thinking is that if someone wants to strip the paint down the road to get to bare wood, the shellac will help keep the paint out of the grain and sanding should take you down to bare oak.
Once it dries, I'll post some photos and we'll see what amber chellac on oak looks like.
Robert, I admire your consideration for others who follow with your car. However, you will need more than one coat of shellac to achieve your goal. It will soak into bare timber at a great rate, and you will need three or four coats to achieve a continuous surface over the timber.
Allan from down under.
I'm on my second coat today. Fine sanding between coats to get the "fuzz" off. Tack cloth and then a light coat. It looks like two should do it. I'm planning on one coat of primer after this and two coats of OD Green and I don't want too much build up, so I'm sanding the shellac down to just seal the grain and to knock down the gloss as my OD green is lusterless.