Firewall stain?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Firewall stain?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Patterson. Australia. on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 07:28 pm:

Hello all,
This weekend I'll be putting some wood stain onto my speedster's firewall.
Right now, and for the next 2 or 3 days, I'm open to suggestions as to what "colour" stain I should use. The car and chassis will be cream with flame red wheels and upholstery.
Presently I'm leaning towards a mid depth, slightly reddish stain. Not too dark and not too light.
I'm thinking about a hard final coating, such as Estapol (don't know if you have it in the USofA or not) as used on flooring.
Your suggestions and advice please.
Cheers,
Rob

(Message edited by rob patterson on February 07, 2017)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Brough on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 07:43 pm:

The wood firewall on my 15 creation is cherry plywood. So a nice cherry stain would bring out the grain and give a reddish tint.
A clear poly or spar varnish would give good protection. Next choice will be level of gloss. satin, semi or glossy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed in California on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 08:22 pm:

The perfect match of cherry.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/392/1/LMF-STAIN-C


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed in California on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 08:24 pm:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/75373.html?1229361973


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Patterson. Australia. on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 08:28 pm:

Robert & Ed,
Perfect, Thanks heaps.
Much appreciated,
Rob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 10:04 pm:

Rob, cherry stain maybe a little hard to find out here. You could use Jarrah for the same effect. I mix the stain with the spar varnish so that I can control the depth of colour. Once you have the depth of colour you like, subsequent coats can be straight spar varnish.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick in Florida on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 - 10:28 pm:

I tried using Cherry stain to stain a non cherry board to match the cabinets in my kitchen and it looked nothing like cherry. I finally found the perfect cherry color in a product called Minwax Polyshades, in Pecan. In a nutshell, it is a polyurethane with stain added to it. It comes in a can (liquid) or aerosol. The aerosol goes on much more evenly and leaves no brush marks. You should get two cans just to be sure you don't run out halfway through the job. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 - 10:58 am:

Way too light for a T firewall above.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 - 11:38 am:

The Laurel Mountain Forge cherry stain is perfect. Have it on my '13 including the coil box. That little 4 oz. bottle goes forever!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 - 01:04 pm:

Pay attention to Tim! That is the correct color cherry stain.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Patterson. Australia. on Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 10:47 pm:

Thank You all for your suggestions and advice. Its much appreciated.
Cheers,
Rob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 10:50 pm:

Who sells Laurel Mountain Forge stains?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen, South Texas on Friday, February 10, 2017 - 08:00 am:

Laurel Mountain, of course. :-)

http://store.laurelmountainforge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_i d=202


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Brough on Friday, February 10, 2017 - 06:24 pm:

This weekend I am going to seal by oak body with amber tinted shellac prior to priming and painting OD green. The thinking is that if someone wants to strip the paint down the road to get to bare wood, the shellac will help keep the paint out of the grain and sanding should take you down to bare oak.

Once it dries, I'll post some photos and we'll see what amber chellac on oak looks like.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, February 10, 2017 - 06:51 pm:

Robert, I admire your consideration for others who follow with your car. However, you will need more than one coat of shellac to achieve your goal. It will soak into bare timber at a great rate, and you will need three or four coats to achieve a continuous surface over the timber.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Brough on Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 09:41 am:

I'm on my second coat today. Fine sanding between coats to get the "fuzz" off. Tack cloth and then a light coat. It looks like two should do it. I'm planning on one coat of primer after this and two coats of OD Green and I don't want too much build up, so I'm sanding the shellac down to just seal the grain and to knock down the gloss as my OD green is lusterless.


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