This one ought to be easy enough to answer: the crank handle on my '26 seems to be a section of tube over the crank itself but it also seems to be fixed pretty securely to the crank. Should it be free to rotate? I'd get an awful lot less blisters if it did...
Yes it should be free on the crank handle.
It spins....the insides of the sleeve get corroded and then they stick.
You can try a penetrating oil like Kroil and a pair of soft jawed grips and work it back and forth for a while IF it will free up...
Or...you can replace it in about 10 minutes and there are plenty of used around to find.
as a short term helper...a replacement grip for a bicycle just happens to form a slip fit over a stuck sleeve and will 'spin' while the sleeve sticks...
(Message edited by george_nj on February 09, 2017)
That is very typical. I call them "Cranker Sores". It's just the right gap to accept water and rust TIGHT. I think heat could loosen it quickly. I have several with plastic tubing on the end and penetrating oil soaking down them.
If penetrating oil doesn't help, heat and some work with a big hammer on an anvil will surely help it loosen up.
Use propane or an oxy-acetylen torch on the handle to heat it hot, but not red hot. Hammer away all around - lots of rust powder should begin to come out. More heating and hammering may be needed, then you should be able to turn the sleeve slightly fore and aft and finally get it completely loose. Few are impossible to loosen - if so, then the sleeve is likely partially rusted away already.
Thanks guys. I like the idea of a temporary slip-fit handle over the top but at some point I'll try the heat and hammer.
Just use an earlier style crank and you won't have that problem.
Use the electric starter.
Come on Norm, that's no fun - hand cranking adds to the fun of a Model T
Only valid use for the electric starter would be fragility from old age or stalling in the middle of an intersection.
I drilled two 1/8" holes about 1/2" from either end to let the penetrating oil in. Freed up rather quickly.
I prefer my old stupid crank. The new smart cranks the kids are using
these days are more than I need and all the apps are so confusing.
I'll be dogged. I've had my '26 T for 47 years and didn't know the handle grip was supposed to turn. I think I'll bust open a can of PB Blaster, after removing the pressure by spraying much of it out and empty it into a bowl and set the bowl on a cinder block with the handle submerged in the Blaster. It shouldn't damage the paint like the heat and hammer method and it would be nice to have one that turns as it was designed to do, that is, if my Blaster method works. Jim Patrick
Well, think I'm with Burger on this one. If I was to free up my "old stupid crank" as Burger puts it, I figure that'd just give me one more rattle! (:^)
Jim, get a small plastic bag, put it around the end of your crank with a rubber band or plastic tie closing the end, spray the PB into the bag using the straw through the end of the bag. Voila, same results with using much less PB!!
My spinner part spins freely on the shaft. It was frozen tight when I got it,
but I got tired of the abraded palm, so I freed it up and been happy ever since.
Not sure if it rattles, as the rest of the truck is so quiet, I spend all my time
listening for dropping pins !
Depending upon how well, how much you have painted your crank handle, you may have sealed in the rust and the PB B'laster won't penetrate. Heat and the hammer may be necessary. Good luck with your project. Bill