The headlights were missing when I bought my '21 Touring a few months ago. I bought a few at a local swap-meet. After sandblasting the buckets and rims were pitted and had a few small pin-holes but I primed and painted them, filling the holes with JB Weld. They will do until I find better. I did get two good reflectors and H lenses. I bought new adjusting hardware and bulbs(from Langs). It is now time for "final" assembly and installation on the car. The rope-type seals that fit in the groove of the reflector behind the lenses were not available when I ordered the other parts. I'm sure someone else has them but I thought about picking up something local. Anybody ever us rubber tubing, like vacuum hose, or windshield washer hose. Any other tips or tricks I need to know? Thanks
The rubber hose your wanting to use is way to big. The rope that is used is only around 3/32"-1/8" at the most in diameter---give or take anyhow.
I see no reason you couldn't use something like rubber or such though, you just need to find the right diameter
Marine wire comes with a greater thickness insulation perhaps that would work for you.
Cotton venitian blind cord is about right. The older type.
Or drapery pull cord, not too different from what Ford used.....
Round braided shoelace?? jb
While you have it apart, you may want to rotate the adjustment mechanism 90 degrees so the adjuster screw is at the top. If left where it is, instead of bright/dim (high low) you will get left/right with the modern bulbs. A tap to the rear will loosen the barrel so it can be removed and rotated the 90 degrees. I install with a bit of loctite to help keep it in place. Drill a second hole for the adjuster and you will have true high and low beam.
Try some rope packing like used on pumps. It comes in rolls so you can cut to length. You can get it at an industrial supply or MSC on line.
1/4" cotton sash cord
Typically readily available at your local hardware store, drapery and blind store, Menards, etc.
Thanks all. John Z, I was not aware of the 90 degree rotation modification. Make sense I guess. I might do that. I suppose the screw should be moved to the inside, towards the radiator.
It looks like the cord/gasket is available from MAC'c @1.95 a pair. #T6578X.
I have used several different types of cord, twine, rope, from blinds and other things. The stuff is commonly available in many places.
One caution though.
Many of them have a center core of some sort of synthetic (nylon?) for strength. Not needed for model T headlamp gaskets, but doesn't hurt anything.
Some of those types of cord have an orange colored core (I have also seen purple). Which wouldn't hurt anything.
When you drive the car in the rain, or wash the car (like that could never happen?). Rain or wash water leaks in around the bezel, and the orange color (I don't know about the purple?) RUNS! On the reflector, on the lens, drips onto the concrete.
Don't ask me how I know.
Tommy, there needs to be a good earth between the headlight bucket and the new globe holder, or you may have some trouble getting the lights to work properly. If you have already painted the buckets, the neatest way to get the earth is to solder a wire to one of the rivets in the bucket and the n solder the other end to the adjusting arm on the globe holder.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I used some excess grey welting from a window screen job I had to do. Works and seals well. Use a little rubber cement to hold it in place. If you really want to make the rims turn easily, smear a very thin film of silicone plumbing grease on the seal.
Allan brings up a good point of the ground. I did this little mod to both my T's, soldered a piece of wire from the bulb holder to the housing itself. My lights are bright and there is no grounding issues.